August 1, day 1
The multiple lists were checked off and the truck was loaded. Loaded being the operative word. After several hours of this we finally kissed the kitties see ya later at 9:30 am and arrived at the dock after a bunch of errands at 2:00 pm. Transferring the pile of stuff to the dock required multiple trips with the two of us each using a dock cart. I went out to Oriane at 2:30 on the RYC launch to bring Oriane to the dock. Gear and supplies were put aboard. Hannaford made some errors in our ToGo order so another trip back to the store and with the added dropping off the dregs of groceries and re-parking the vehicle our departure was delayed. Journeys End Marina was very generous letting us use their dock. Whatever thought was going to take 20 minutes took 2 hours. We finally cast off at 4:30 and headed across the bay motor sailing at good speed. We passed a Navy ship that was anchored In Rockland for the lobster festival.
It was an easy crossing with pretty calm seas and an easy breeze.
The mooring in quiet Perry Creek was picked up at 6:05 pm. Kathy immediately got to work putting the groceries away. There’s a lot…..as we plan to be out for several weeks. Grand Manan, New Brunswick, Canada is again in our sights. With all the stuff we put aboard the waterline might be able to be found with a mask and snorkel.
Dinner will be simple tonight.
Post dinner cribbage game was hard fought with Kathy winning. A 21 point hand midway helped her a lot.
Tomorrow we are heading to watch the start of the Eggemoggin Reach Regatta, an amazing spectacle of wooden boats. Then onwards.
It’s been a strenuous but good day.
11nm today
11nm for the cruise
531nm for the season
August 2, day 2
Alarm went off at 0530
Clear and cold overnight.
Mooring dropped at 0640 and underway on flat calm water.
Without any wind we headed east towards Eggemoggin Reach to watch the annual wooden boat regatta ETA four hours. Crossing Isle au Haut bay we dodged an orchard of lobster pots hidden in the reflection of a brilliant sunrise. The main was raised and the jib was added to boost our speed.
We continued through the Deer Island Thorofare passing Stonington and all the islands of Merchant Row including Hell’s Half Acre.
We headed up the Reach and through the moored fleet as they began to head to the start line.
These boats are really working works of art.
After the start we followed the fleet down the Reach then peeled off east through Casco Passage into and sailed wing on wing across Blue Hill Bay aiming at the Bass Harbor Bar. Since the tide was flooding the contrary current coming across the bar dropped our speed 2.5 knots.
We jibbed over to make the green gong that marks the final approach to the MDI region. Overtaking power boats of all descriptions swarmed past tossing us in their wake. I’ve never seen Western Way so busy. Besides the gold platers there was yet another sail boat race through which we threaded to add to the fun.
We dropped the main outside of the anchorage at Little Cranberry Island and had our fingers crossed that one of the town guest moorings would be free.
Found it!
Deck work of tidying up the main sail, securing the halyards, and coiling lines then time to relax. After a while Kathy launched her board and went exploring right to sunset. Dinner was wild caught Norwegian salmon with rice and blueberry avocado salsa. Yum.
We plan on spending two nights here then launch towards Grand Manan on Monday. Tomorrow will be a clean up and organize the cabin day and other necessary stuff to get ready. By the time I finished cleaning up the galley it was time to hit the sack.
It’s been a good day.
41 .9nm for the day
52.9nm for the cruise
572.9nm for the season
August 3, day 3
Awake at 5 and lay-a-bed, well, just because.
Today, we need to clean the speed impeller, sort out clothing, wash down the cockpit, change out the drinking water filter, make some sort of sense out of the gear tossed hastily into the quarter berth and a bunch of other small jobs before heading to the beach to clean Porcine’s bottom.
Upcoming weather check preceded the mandatory first cup of coffee, breakfast of poached eggs on avocado toast with salsa was enjoyed in the cockpit. We have a wonderful view of Mt Desert from our cockpit to enjoy as we eat.
Almost all the jobs were accomplished and a nice walk ashore including a stop at a kids lemonade stand was enjoyed.
Tom Young and his wife said, “hey” as we strolled around. They have a very beautiful 1961 Alden Challenger named Christmas out of Rockport.
A bouncy ride back to Oriane to allow us to relax before deciding to go ashore for happy hour.
Back on Oriane after another mission ashore we had a delicious dinner of fresh scallops with local summer squash and brown rice.
7:00/7:30 pm separate conference calls were made with two groups of friends coming on the boat later in August when Kathy goes home to work.
For those keeping score, I won the nightly cribbage game.
We puttered for a while then sack time.
It’s been a good day.
0 nm for the day
52.9nm for the cruise
572.9nm for the season
August 4, day 4 Cruise to Canada
After a rather cool three blanket night, coffee in the cockpit was restorative as we looked at the scenery through a haze of Canadian wildfire smoke. Breakfast consisted of homemade granola on yoghurt with wild Maine blueberries.
Tom Young’s Alden yawl “Christmas” rides on a town guest mooring in Little Cranberry Island harbor behind us with MDI in the background.
The weather check looks good for heading to Canada starting today. The hurricane center site indicates that the storm off the SE coast is heading out to sea (unless, of course, someone gets out a sharpie). So that is not a factor.
This morning Kathy has some work details to tidy up before we head to NE Hbr to top up fuel and water. From there we will point our bow east.
For the last three trips down east I have been looking at a possible anchorage at Crumple Island south of Jonesport. Hopefully we will find it a good place to spend tonight. If not, the Cows Yard one of my all time favorite harbors, just 5 miles further, is our alternate.
Fueled, watered and washed down we left at 11:20 bound east.when one passes Schoodic Point one enters a world of big water, few services, and extraordinary experiences. I have made this passage more than a dozen times. I suspect that 99% of the boats on the coast of Maine have not been east of Schoodic.
We raised ‘tit Manan light at 2:05 pm and standing about a mile and a half out enjoying a nice pick up from the start of the flood tide.
We passed Tibbetts rock at 2:45 PM. Now that is a crazy piece of water. You’re cruising right along in depths over 100’ and all of a sudden there are two fingers of rock sticking up that could tear your bottom out.
After looking once again at the weather, Crumple Island is going to wait for our return trip due to wind exposure tonight. We’re heading instead to one of our favorite places-The Cows Yard. We passed Mistake Light at 4:40 pm and doused sails. Then, turned Oriane’s bow into the anchorage passing Man Island.
Anchor down at 4:59 pm. Nice to be back.
Deck chores done, it’s time to relax.
Kathy launched her kayak and took a tour of the surroundings. She chatted with the crew of a neighbor boat (there are three boats here). Zim, the owner, rode over to Oriane after talking to Kathy. He asked about the current situation with clearing customs both going and coming. I gave him my latest intel.
It’s a lovely evening. Dinner then cribbage.
Tomorrow an easier day. Cutler is less than 20nm miles from here. Doesn’t seem that far when you are used to driving a car, but we go at such a speed that butterflies sometime pass us.
Calculating the departure time from Cutler to North Head Grand Manan on Wednesday. We have to have anchors up at 0615 to make the best of the tide.
For those keeping score I won the nightly cribbage game but Kathy got beyond the skunk line.
Below, dishes done, it’s time to re-relax by watching a movie.
It’s been a good day.
40.9nm for the day
93.8nm for the cruise
612.9 for the summer
August 5, day 5
5:15 am. The sunrises continue to be hazy from the smoke from Canada. The Cows Yard anchorage is still as a mill pond with just a hint of gentle motion. The crew starts stirring and coffee is made. There’s a cool northerly breeze so today it’s served below decks where it’s cozy. We can just barely hear the lobster boys out of Jonesport rumbling in the distance.
Yesterday during our travels, we encountered several bird species one does not regularly see west of Schoodic. These included a Puffin, Northern Gannets, Sooty Shearwaters, Buffleheads and Razor Billed Auks. Here in the anchorage we hear Crows, Ospreys and Bald Eagles.
Foss Mountain blueberry pancakes for breakfast in the cockpit. I Yum.
It’s going to be a lazy morning waiting for the afternoon tide to make the short 19nm jump to Cutler. Then planning to make an O’early hundred start to catch the tide to North Head Grand Manan Island. The currents are starting to get serious around here.
We called Grand Manan’s new Wharfinger Landon Green (506-321-1149) to see about dockage tomorrow. He’s checking on availability and will call back. These things take time.
Dockage is $60 CAN ($43.50 USD)/night. A little bit different than the $150+/night in Portland.
Landon messaged me that we can raft up with the “Crimson Tide 2002” at the dock. We will clear customs tomorrow after we dock.
Our two neighbor boats departed and during a lull in lobster boat activity within sight the crew took the opportunity to take cockpit showers. Now we’re all clean and ready for the flesh pot’s of metropolitan Cutler (pop. 525) the last harbor before crossing into Canada. Anchor up at 1:30 pm.
Kathy prepared food for later consumption then went paddling around the nearby islands.
At 1:15 the engine was checked over then started instruments were turned, on final navigation was checked, deck wash was turned on to clear the anchor chain of any mud and the in harbor nav after anchor off the bottom was reviewed. The anchor chain was washed as it came up and Kathy went to the helm when the anchor came off the bottom to control the boat as I finished up getting the anchor onboard. After securing the anchor and stowing the deck gear off we went. We raised the main but there is not a lot of wind. 2.7 knots apparent.
Our SOG kept creeping up as time passed and the flood current commenced. We use our auto pilot a lot but Oriane has a penchant to spot lobster pots and head directly towards them so constant vigilance is required to avoid an unfortunate mishap.
At approximately 4:25 we pass the 26 large imposing radio towers that the Navy uses to communicate worldwide with the US submarine fleet. They glow blue at night.
Our SOG keeps climbing as we pass the towers to 7.2 knots up from 5.2 as we left the Cows Yard. We expect more as the current increases.
Our arrival time is a little after 5:00 pm.
We’ve been watching Grand Manan grow ever since leaving the Cows Yard. We’re really close now. It’s only 13nm away to the closest point. We are only 26nm from North Head Harbor. We will clear customs tomorrow when we arrive.
We got advice about a mooring to use which makes it easier tomorrow morning to leave early in the morning.
Dinner taken in the cockpit was delicious. A close game of cribbage was won by Kathy.
It’s been a good day.
19.9nm for the day
113.6nm for the cruise
632.8nm for the season
August 6, day 6 Canada Cruise
4:00 am. As I lie in my berth I am listening to the awakenings of this working harbor. The Cutler lobstermen have nothing to prove. Their boats are relatively quiet and they leave their moorings at a leisurely pace without leaving much of a wake.
4:50 am. Sunrise is beautiful from the still harbor. The crew is stirring and the coffee is started.
A simple breakfast is consumed so that we can drop the mooring and catch the tide up the bay.
Johann the Phantom was fired up, navigation was completed and the mooring was tossed at 6:00 am. We pointed the bow out into the Grand Manan Channel where the current will speed us to Canada. The entire passage we could see our destination in the clear weather we are experiencing.
It’s a small tide so the ground speed maxed out at only 7.2 knots.
We crossed Long Eddy at the north end of the island where the turbulence put on quite a show. We saw minke and finback whales, porpoises, seals and birds of all sorts including multiple puffins but not the Killer Whale that was hanging around the last time we were here 2 years ago.
The Grand Manan ferry closed in rapidly but we beat it into the docking area so we were not a hindrance for them.
Landon, the island wharfinger, met us at the dock and after formalities of dock paperwork and clearing customs we were about to take a breath when a boat showed up. It seems that Landon put us in an active spot so we moved Oriane and rafted up with two large fishing boats.
Finally settled we went ashore and strolled to the Seaquel restaurant for lunch.
After lunch we walked to Swallowtail light then back to the harbor. After returning to the boat we discussed what we want to do next. The crew independently and unanimously decides that a return to Saint Andrews in Passamaquoddy Bay is a great idea. The captain calculated the course/speed/distance then consulted the tide tables. All things considered it dictates a 5:30 am departure from Northhead in order to get into Passamaquoddy Bay with its fierce tides and currents.
The weather has been spectacular with clear skies and sunshine. I’ve been here a number of times and seen nothing due to zero viz fog. This time is one of the good ones.
As we sit in the cockpit a local fisherman named Brad stopped by and spent the better part of a half an hour swapping stories. It was quite entertaining and enlightening.
Landon stopped by to finish up our dealings for the dockage and to lend a hand redoing our lines to make it easier to depart early tomorrow morning.
It’s been a good day
25.6nm for the day
139.2nm for the cruise
658.4nm for the cruise
August 7, day 7 Canada Cruise
0400 rolled around early. We had to get going so coffee on and a simple breakfast of homemade granola on yoghurt with Foss Mtn blueberries. The tide to get into Passamaquoddy Bay does not permit lingerers to pass. We have a time window and this is when we have to go.
Nav instruments, running lights and steaming light are turned on, the course is plotted and finally Johann the Phantom is fired up. Warm clothes including my down jacket and watch cap along with my inflatable PFD are donned.
At 0500 Kathy, making a similar fashion statement, goes to the bow and retrieves the line connecting Oriane to the large fishing boat to which we are rafted. I release the stern line and Kathy moves to midships to release the spring line as I ease the transmission into reverse to position ourselves to exit the snug harbor area. In forward, the sky has a hint of dawn as we clear the massive breakwater. Our course takes us through the area of numerous whale sightings around Grand Manan. We keep our eyes open. What small amount of wind there is comes far forward and is not conducive to setting the sails. We clear the northeast end of the island and set the auto pilot on course. With no lobster pots to be concerned about we can take a relaxed attitude and spend time looking for whales rather than worrying about lobster traps every 10 seconds like when we’re in Maine.
We spy a couple of fin backs.
Two and a half hours later we get close to the entrance into the Bay where all the fun begins and I start doing some serious captaining stuff. This is big water and we are anticipating a significant increase in ground speed. We sweep through Letitte passage avoiding the many well marked ledges. Our ground speed increases from 5.5 knots to 10.4 knots. I’ve been in these waters many times and enjoy the ride. It’s like sailing on boiling water. There are rips and upwelling swirls and the landscape goes by at impressive speed. 10.4 is not the fastest I’ve ever been going through here. The tide range today is less than the max. It’s a moon thing. I’ve been through doing 12.8 knots SOG so 10.4 is a walk in the park.
Once in the bay it’s a quiet, relaxing 6 mile crossing to St. Andrews.
We had a mooring reserved and upon entering the harbor the assistant Wharfinger can out in his dinghy to guide us to the mooring. We secured the engine at 10:30 am.
After cleaning up the deck stuff and organizing our gear we put our electric dinghy motor on Porcine and headed to town to the farmers market, lunch, strolling around the busy shops and finally getting in a shower before heading back to the boat to relax.
Kathy won the Rummycub game.
We went ashore for dinner.
Nothing further of consequence to report.
It’s been a good day.
27.3nm for the day
166.5nm for the cruise
685.7nm for the summer
August 8, day 8 Canada Cruise
Lounged in our berths before finally making coffee at 7:30 am (Atlantic time) and enjoyed sipping it in the cockpit while watching St. Andrews harbor come awake.
A day ashore is planned and next destinations are discussed. We get a message from our friend Lee Spiller who’s currently cruising in Newfoundland that a large storm that recently was predicted to be a factor here is no longer a threat. Good to hear.
After clearing up the cabin, while listening to pleasant classical music, Kathy made a big breakfast while I spent time figuring out the tide schedule in order to make our way eventually back to Bar Harbor to go to a concert on the 16th.
Looks like tomorrow after a leisurely morning, we will catch the afternoon ebb tide down Western Way pass the Old Sow whirlpool visit the Roosevelt Cottage then to the north end of Campobello Island and overnight in Head Harbor.
Sunday’s destination is still to be determined.
Kathy spent time inventorying the food onboard and making a shopping list for when we go ashore.
After dishes we’re going ashore to walkabout.
Ashore we caught the free “Hop on/Hop off” bus to see the stone cross and Heart of Stone sculpture then walked up to the amazing 27 acre formal garden next to the Algonquin Hotel. After wandering through the garden we headed back to the harbor area for lunch and groceries then dinghied back to Oriane for a relaxing rest of our day.
Plans for returning to the USA were considered and based on timing of the tides we will head to Head Harbor Campobello tomorrow then see how far down the coast we can get in the chop of the SW winds against the afternoon ebb tide before sunset.
A simple dinner of fresh corn on the cob and a salad was enjoyed then the daily cribbage game. Reading and an episode of House finished our day.
For those keeping score, I won the cribbage game.
It’s been a good day.
0nm for the day
166.5nm for the cruise
685.7nm for the summer
August 9, day 9 Canada Cruise
A lazy start to our morning as we had to wait for the afternoon tide to get out of dodge. We dinghy ashore to enjoy breakfast at a local restaurant. Just as we are finishing, we hear a community band tuning up. Trumpets, tuba, and other band instruments start playing a piece and we gravitate to the outdoor sound. A modest crowd gather to enjoy the music. We sit for a while thoroughly entertained. Then we stroll on eventually returning to the harbor area. We asked Blair, St. Andrews’ Wharfinger, about docking to top off our forward water tank. We come alongside at noon take on water. We’ve used about 15 gallons since leaving Clifton Dock 6 days ago.
Leaving the harbor we motored into a 17 knot headwind pointing towards Westerly Passage and the increased ground speed of the ebbing tide six miles away. When we get to the passage the wind angle is such that the jib is deployed and the engine is stopped.
The Roosevelt Cottage seemed attractive for a short visit and while we got close we realized that the hassle factor was pretty high and the tide was calling so we continued on running downwind under jib towards our destination for the day Head Harbor. It’s one of me very favorite harbors of all time. Not for everyone. It’s very local, it’s very “industrial”. The harbor, while dormant now due to the fishing season regulations, is full of large boats. I can almost hear the humming of anticipation for the coming season. There are long delimbed spruce tree fish weir stakes lying in wait to replace/repair/rebuild the area’s fish traps. Each weir has a name. There are stake driver floats and numerous floating lobster shacks.
When we arrived we were lucky to find James aboard his Alyssa & Brittany who not only graciously allowed us to raft up but helped secure Oriane’s lines.
Johann the Phantom was secured at 5:19 pm.
When talking to James I found out that he has owned his large lobster boat for three years. When I commented to James on the size of the Bay of Fundy boats compared to Maine lobster boats, he said, “Mainers build their boats for speed, here we build them for comfort.” I can’t even begin to imagine how rough it gets up here during the winter lobster season.
Relaxing commenced followed by dinner.
We hope to meet up in the next few days with our friends Tom and Robin coming back from Nova Scotia.
For those keeping score Kathy won tonight’s cribbage game.
Lying in bed I calculate tomorrow’s departure time. 11:30 am.
Nothing further of consequence to report.
It’s been a good day.
20.8nm for the day
187.3nm for the cruise
706.5nm for the summer
August 10, day 10 Canada Cruise
Out of the sack at 7 am local time for coffee in the cockpit. The world of Head Harbor awakens to another clear sunrise. The myriad gulls that populate the place sure like making noise. It’s low tide so the pier looms from a considerable height and seaweed drapes the shorelines all around the harbor.
We get a message from Robin on Althea that they departed Shelburne, NS @ 5:00 this morning and will try to meet us at Roque Island tomorrow if all goes well.
I take another pass at calculating our departure time and checking the weather. This can be a tough place from which to escape. Except for the timing of the tide today is about as good as it gets - the prediction of 5-10 knot winds means that it should be a fairly comfortable day. An afternoon high tide makes Cutler or Cross Island a likely place to land. We have to have cell service to clear back into the USA so Cutler is probably the winning choice.
Kathy made avocado toast with poached egg for breakfast. Yum.
Kathy dropped her kayak into the water and went exploring about the harbor.
I do the breakfast dishes and straighten up the cabin.
We wait. We want to leave. We’re ready. Oriane is cleaned, strapped down and still sitting tied to Alyssa & Brittany. The tide isn’t ready to let us escape. Three knot contrary current in the Grand Manan Channel just isn’t conducive to our leaving. We read, draw, listen to NPR and the gulls, gaze about the harbor and we wait.
By waiting we will benefit from the outgoing tide will add up to 3 knots to our ground speed towards Cutler.
We finally departed Head Harbor at 12:20 DST and headed out the channel. Fog closed in so the fog horn and nav lights were activated.
When we turned to starboard to head out into the Bay it was immediately apparent that the wind forecast was not as predicted.
The wind topped out at 24+ knots.
Needless to say that with the tide going out against such a wind that it got pretty nautical. Torrents of spray came across the deck and into the cockpit from over the port side. At least our foul weather jackets kept our tops dry and warm. Oriane shouldered aside 4-5’ waves every 3-4 seconds the bow pitching up and down 5-8’ at each wave. Oriane is a rugged ocean boat. While uncomfortable, we felt completely safe in the cockpit and soldiered on. After a couple hours and after crossing the international boundary back into the USA the wind dropped to 12-14 knots and the waves subsided to a reasonable level while sliding along at upwards of 9 knots SOG. BTW the water temperature is 48f in the Bay.
Still out in the bay while bouncing along we had a good cell connection so I submitted the CBP application to clear in. After a short while we did a video interview and received our clearance. We did have to throw overboard one lemon and two limes at the request of the CBP officer while he watched on video.
The balance of the passage to Cutler was pretty uneventful. Back in US waters we again kept watch for lobster pots.
At 4:05 pm EDT we secured to the same mooring in Cutler that was offered to us on our outbound leg. 3:45 to make the trip averaging 6.75 knots start to finish. I complemented Kathy on being such good crew.
Happy hour commenced followed by a game of cribbage. For those keeping score, despite crummy cards, Kathy did not skunk me.
Well deserved relaxation continued while listening to the Metropolitan opera recording of “The Marriage of Figgerio”while eating dinner in the cockpit.
Nothing further of consequence to report.
It’s been a good day.
25.2nm for the day
212.5nm for the cruise
731.7nm for the summer
August 11, day 11 Canada Cruise
We hung around Cutler for the morning enjoying a good walk ashore including a mission to the library to download some movies and a stop at Little River Lobster to acquire some dinner.
At 12:15 pm we dropped the mooring and headed back out to continue west towards Lakeman Harbor, Roque Island to rendezvous with our friends on Althea. We were catching the ebb tide. The radar and fog horn were on as we were heading into zero visibility fog. We had 10 second warning for lobster pots for two and three- quarter hours. Off Old Man Island we encountered a wicked tide rip with 4-5’ waves 2-3 seconds apart that lasted for about 1.5 miles. The wind angle improved after passing outside of Cross Island. We dodged pots all the way to Roque where the fog finally scaled up. We turned the corner into Lakeman and spied Althea riding quietly on her anchor with Tom and Robin waving hello.
We dropped our anchor at 3:15 PM and got tidied up. Tom and Robin came over in their dinghy so we could tell tales and swap lies.
Lobster dinner in the cockpit under a clear blue sky.
For those keeping score I won tonight’s cribbage game.
It’s been a good day.
15.9nm for the day
228.4nm for the cruise
747.6nm for the summer
August 12, day 12 Canada Cruise
I woke up to the sound of Bald Eagles chirping at the edge of mirror still Lakeman Harbor and luxuriated in my berth for an additional hour. Kathy made coffee and I joined her in the cockpit to enjoy it and the warm sunshine.
The tide range here is only 14’. Piece of cake compared up in the Bay of Fundy.
Our mission today is to go for a walk and then have a picnic on Roque Island’s great beach. This day is going to require sunglasses.
Around 12:30 Althea’s crew came in their dinghy, we climbed in and motored to the great beach for the picnic. We strolled the beach and admired the vista.
Due to weather issues we decided to move to The Cows Yard to stage ourselves for an early departure back to Mt. Desert area. There’s some nasty weather approaching and we have concert tickets for Saturday. If we don’t go tomorrow it would get real nautical and we had enough of that recently. If we can’t get into NE Harbor we’ll go to little cranberry.
The passage to The Cows Yard took us through Roque’s narrow, unmarked, lobster pot strewn Thoroughfare. No big deal. I’ve been through a number of times. It’s pretty scenic. The 10-14 knot winds at the exit of the thoroughfare was perfect for sailing down to the SE corner of Harbor Island. Dousing the jib we motored into the anchorage.
Mocktails and chips before Kathy started dinner.
For those keeping score I won tonight’s cribbage game.
It’s been a good day.
8.0nm for the day
236.4nm for the cruise
755.6nm for the summer
August 13, day 13 Canada Cruise
4:30 am came and I lay in bed for the 5:00 am alarm. Last night I calculated that we could get to NE Harbor with a 6 am anchor up. Quick breakfast of cold cereal with almond slices and blueberries. The container of milk got put in the freezer by mistake so it was really cold cereal.
5:40 Johann the Phantom was fired up, instruments on, navigation programmed, fuel level checked and consumption calculations made, deck wash turned on and anchor raised. We were getting ahead of bad weather coming in starting tomorrow that would make it much harder to make this leg of the trip. Today the wind was both light and on the nose. The current would be with us for about 3 hours, go slack then turn against us. But we would be back in the area where current is nothing compared to where we had recently been.
We spent the morning constantly dodging lobster pots. Sometimes vast fields of them. ‘Tit Manan Lighthouse was visible again as we passed westbound.
We finally turned into the channel leading into NE Harbor and got on a mooring at 12:30.
Ashore for a bit of wandering around and to take a shower. Back on Oriane - afternoon snacks and a Dark and Stormy.
For those keeping score Kathy won today’s cribbage game.
The ship’s cook is taking the night off so ashore for dinner.
Fog snuck into the harbor while we were dining ashore but had no trouble returning to Oriane. Tom stopped by and we had a grand time telling stories.
I played a few songs on my guitar. It’s nice to have new strings on your guitar.
Nothing further of consequence to report.
It’s been a good day.
37.6nm for the day
274nm for the cruise
793.2 nm for the summer
August 14-16, day 14-16 Canada Cruise
We are in NE Harbor for 4 nights. Nothing to report other than we enjoying the offerings of Mount Desert Island.
Will update when we start moving again or if something exceptional happens.
For those keeping score, I won tonight’s cribbage game.
Every day is a good day.
August 17, day 17 Canada Cruise
We got back from Bar Harbor at 11:45 pm after a wonderful day ashore including a carriage ride in Mr. Rockefeller’s carriage roads followed by dinner with Tom and Robin from Althea and Art and Beth from Hobbitship. After dinner we saw Chris Thile in concert. He’s a monster mandolin player.
Sunday morning coffee, breakfast and chores.
We departed the NE Harbor mooring and stopped at Clifton Dock for fuel and water. Then made our way lazily under jib alone past Valley Cove and Flying Mountain to the top end of the only true fjord on the east coast of the US - Somes Sound. Lunch was served underway. In the pool in Somesville we found a mooring. It was a short distance but a large change in surroundings. From a busy bustling harbor with lots going on to a quiet anchorage with no commercial services only 4 miles as the eagle flies away. After deck chores, relaxation commenced.
More later if of consequence.
For those keeping score Kathy trounced me winning with me thankfully 1 point past the Skunk Line.
It’s been a good day.
6.5nn for the day
289.5nm for the cruise
799.7 nm for the summer
August 18, day 18 Canada Cruise
Oriane and her crew woke up late (7:00 am) finding themselves secure in Somesville. All aspects of storms had past and the wind and weather were perfect for a downwind sail through the glacially carved fjord to visit Southwest Harbor. We docked at the upper town landing which is within convenient walking distance to town.
We stopped at Bub’s Burritos and had a fabulous and reasonably priced lunch. The portions were so large that we brought half back to the boat for dinner.
Oriane was pinned to the dock by the wind so we sprung off the bow. Uncharacteristically Oriane’s stern obeyed and we backed off the dock without making a spectacle of ourselves.
We put a single reef in the main when we turned into the wind between the coast guard station and Greening Island then fell off and put out the jib as we turned to course.
The wind did what was predicted. We were running wing on wing downwind southbound through Western Way. We jibbed the main At the Long Ledge lighted green gong buoy 1 and headed towards Bass Harbor Bar.
The wind got a bit squirrelly left and right and up and down on speed which required constant trimming. In Western Way we saw a max gust of 24 knots generally steady at 13-18. Across the Bar the wind dropped temporarily to 3 knots before returning to 10-12 on a close reach. Oriane’s ground speed hit 7.9 knots over the Bar.
The crossing of Blue Hill Bay was event less. We furled the jib then rounded up to drop the main when we got to the harbor. We chose a good spot to drop the anchor and after post sail chores it was time to relax.
For those keeping score I beat Kathy by a comfortable amount in Cribbage.
It’s been a good day.
18.6nm for the day
308.1nm for the cruise
818.7nm for the summer
August 19, day 19 Canada Cruise
Back in the region were them lobster boys like their boats loud and fast. It was 4 am when the rumbling sound began to penetrate my slumber.
I dozed in and out thinking about “stuff” finally giving in at 6:00 am to the need to start coffee as required by the rest of the crew to put off any mutinous tendencies.
The cockpit was dry so we took coffee and breakfast while gazing at the harbor’s vistas.
Today we plan a short passage to anchor in Hell’s Half Acre. It’s less than 9nm and with the fairly light winds it should be an easy, gentle sail.
The crew boarded Porcine to shuttle to the Buckle Island’s north beach. A delightful stroll out to the north ledges then south through the iconic green “Etherea” door to look for the island’s fairies’ houses. I figure that the fairies must be nomad. Rather than rebuilding their houses after a winter retreating into the denser forest in the middle of the island where it’s warmer, in spring they build new ones. We tried to spy every new fairy house and consider the architectural design features employed. Every house is unique.
Back on Oriane, lunch was served. The destination was agreed to and anchor raising strategy was discussed prior to weighing the well set 20 kg Mantus.
Oriane motored out through the western end of York Narrows and turned into the wind, we raised her main, fell off to course and launched the jib. A very pleasant beam reach sail across Jericho Bay ensued.
We poked our bow into the Camp Island anchorage but decided to go around the corner and anchored in Hell’s Half Acre instead. Fewer boat wakes.
After cleaning up the deck and lines a Cribbage game broke out. For those keeping score Kathy won.
Apps followed.
Boat baked focaccia and vegetable pasta was prepared, presented and consumed for dinner.
It’s been a good day.
8.3nm for the day
316.4nm for the cruise
827nm for the summer
August 20, day 20 Canada Cruise
Hell’s Half Acre started to get noisy at 7:00 AM when Prock Marine resumed work building a new pier that reaches out into the anchorage from Bold Island.
Andy and Gay Howe came by at 9:00 for coffee and to catch up.
Kathy launched her kayak and tooled about the anchorage. When back we checked in on Hurricane Erin and made calls to find out what folks back in Rockland are expecting for impacts. Seems relatively benign with some surge. We plan to return to Rockland on Saturday.
We raised anchor and headed west through the Deer Island Thorofare past Stonington and out into Isle au Haut Bay. An uneventful crossing to the Fox Island Thorofare eventually ending up in Perry Creek. I took Kathy to shore so she could hike up to elevation to get a cell signal for a business call. We agreed to meet at 5:00 pm. Back on the boat, my guitar got some exercise.
At the appointed hour, she appeared out of the woods as I brought Porcine to the trailhead at the shoreline.
A cribbage game before dinner ensued.
The clouds at sunset put on a magnificent display.
Nothing further of consequence to note.
For those keeping score Kathy won by a small margin.
This is my 66th day on Oriane this summer. It’s been a good day.
12.5nm for the day
328.9nm for the cruise
839.5nm for the summer
August 21, day 21 Canada Cruise
We’re moored in Perry Creek thinking that we would wait out the wave effects of Erin. It was a three blanket night. The captain made coffee and the crew lit the cabin heater.
This morning’s brilliant golden sunrise is the reason we gave Oriane her name. The sun came up gold at the eastern entrance to Perry Creek before turning blazing white against the blue sky.
Recreational options for the day were discussed including a walk on the trails, scrabble, cribbage, playing music, drawing and exploring the shoreline in the dinghy. However, when we listened to the weather forecast it initiated a discussion about heading back today vs Saturday vs Sunday. The decision was made to go back today to Rockland and head home after cleaning up the boat. It will be good to see the kitties.
We motored back to Rockland with very light wind and a pretty flat sea. Below decks clean up while underway.
At the Town Landing we off loaded 3 1/2 dock carts of stuff, finished cleaning up the boat, moved her back to her 11,000 lb. mooring, secured everything on and below deck, locked the companionway and sat waiting for the launch to pick us up.
Ashore the crew got in the truck and headed home.
So ended our 3 week cruise to the Bay of Fundy.
It’s been a good day. It’s been a great trip.
11.9 nm for the day
340.8nm for the cruise
851.4nm for the summer
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