USA 250th anniversary cruise July 2-19,2026

Log of sv Oriane

Thom Perkins, Captain

Kathy Bennett, Admiral

July 2, 2026

We arrived in Rockland, Maine as the outside air temperature gauge reads 102f. It’s bloody hot as we load the boat with gear for a 10 day cruise.

We got word that potential buyers want to look at the boat tomorrow morning at 9:00AM. So rather than heading out of the harbor for relief from the heat we take a mooring at the north end of the breakwater. It’s a smidgeon cooler. A gin and tonic (or two) were enjoyed in the cockpit followed by dinner of fresh caught swordfish and homemade Thai peanut noodles. It’s rather sad thinking that this might be our last cruise on Oriane.

July 3

After a showing for potential buyers, we headed out of Rockland harbor and pointed toward Tom Cod Cove. Fun, gentle downwind sail under Genoa. Wayne Cronin and his family pass us in their Friendship Sloop “Rights of Man”. We moored for the night. Kathy went for a swim.

July 4

Moved to Castine Dock with special permission to stay longer than the max 2 hr limit so that we could go to the kids’ costume parade and town festivities.

After the festivities we moved back to Tom Cod Cove for the afternoon. The plan is to move at dinnertime to a MMA mooring across the harbor from Castine to watch the fireworks.

July 5

Cousins Nancy and Ellie met us for coffee on the dock after Kathy completed her kayak mission. Lovely conversation over coffee.

After our see ya laters, Oriane headed down Eggemoggin Reach and ended up in one of my favorite places - Buckle Island harbor with its view of Mt Desert. The evening passed lazily. And the crew retired for the night.

July 6

It was a two blanket night. Feels nice after the heatwave.  Breakfast of buckwheat blueberry pancakes and coffee enjoyed in the cockpit surrounded by the going’s on of nature and lobster boats.

Kathy heaved her kayak overboard and climbed in to explore the neighborhood while the captain did the dishes and sparkled the galley.

Today we head across Blue Hill Bay passing over the Bass Harbor Bar with the destination of Little Cranberry Island. We hope to find one of the guest moorings open upon which we can hang.

After an uneventful crossing to Little Cranberry and finding an open guest mooring, we spent an  equally uneventful night in the harbor providing the crew with excellent views of Acadia National Park and an equally wonderful sunset.

July 7

We moved Oriane to the extraordinary Northeast Harbor arriving at 9:15 AM. We found our friends Art and Beth on their cute 24’ Hobbitship. Showers and a walk to town were first on the agenda. Art and Beth and our crew made our way to the flesh pot’s of Bar Harbor for a late afternoon early dinner and a run to the grocery store.

An uneventful night after returning to Oriane.

July 8

The crew had lunch in Southwest Harbor with our friends Carey Kish and Fran Leyman then another trip to Bar Harbor this time for ice cream and general sightseeing. We caught the last bus back to our boat and spent the evening relaxing.

July 9

Showers & farmers market missions completed, we said a fond farewell to the amazing Mark the launch driver and headed to Hinkley for a spot of maintenance, pump out and 12 gallons of fuel. We cast off the lines releasing us from Hinkley’s dock and headed up Somes Sound. Kathy had a business Zoom call to make mid-afternoon. We arrived in Somesville with plenty of time to spare after a lazy beam/broad reach up the only true fiord on the East Coast of the US.

Secured in the harbor there is little more to report.

July 10

After a calm night we slept in until almost 7 am. Banker’s Hours!!

Kathy’s business required staying put until 11:30. Various destinations were considered as Oriane romped down Somes Sound taking advantage of the 8-15 knots north wind pushing us along.

Destinations considered included Frenchboro, Bartlett Island, Burnt Coat and finally the anchorage between Opechee, Black and Sheep islands where we set the anchor. Getting here meant crossing the Bass Harbor Bar yet again. The incoming tide boosted our ground speed to 8 knots….. whee! The crossing of Blue Hill Bay was easy with a close reach on a NW wind. It did require vigilance for the myriad of lobster pots.

This is my second time anchoring here. The last time was probably thirty years ago. It’s lovely with views of Acadia, Swans and Isle au Haut. Sheep Island has a large glacial erratic on it.  Serious relaxation commenced once the anchor was set and checked twice.

Kathy determines that her business obligations could be conducted from the boat and that we might as well extend our cruise for another week. No argument from the captain.

July 11

Spent the day on anchor. I was able to get in and out of the dinghy so off we went to explore the neighborhood. Flagged down a lobster boat and got 4 bad boys and he threw in an extra.

After lazy time back on the mothership we did another dinghy mission to a beach where repairs were accomplished on Porcine (our inflatable dinghy which rows like a pig) to keep it from sinking.

Back again on Oriane, gin and tonics and snacks were brought out while the water in the lobster pot came to a boil.

Dinner was energetic with all the cracking and picking.

We brought out the guitars and played a few songs in the cockpit. Then an episode of intrigue on the iPad and reading took the stage until lights out.

July 12

Dawn broke ending a 2 blanket night. We determined that the wind forecast made a 11 am departure optimum. Breakfast and Boat chores occupied the morning while listening to WERU radio Sunday morning folk show. When the appointed hour came we raised the anchor and bravely made our way out of the anchorage and raised the sails. The north wind carried us east through Casco Passage and into Eggemoggin Reach. The wind was squirrelly requiring frequent course changes and tacking. All the while dodging the orchard of lobster pots.

The further up the reach the pots thankfully petered out.

A Bucks Harbor Yacht Club guest mooring was open and we took advantage of their hospitality. The didn’t answer our phone calls nor respond on the radio.

It is first come first served and we were first.

In Bucks Harbor a required tradition is to take advantage of the now historic outdoor shower. Feeling restored we headed off to the market only to find it closed on Sundays.

We filled a couple of bottles with drinking water and pointed Porcine back to the mothership.

Pre-dinner snacks and beverages were consumed with relish. Lobster pasta dinner prepared and consumed.

July 13

Kathy made use of the calm morning to kayak around the harbor. I did my TaiChi and exercises on board.

We took the time before Kathy’s business required her attention to land Porcine at the Yacht Club dock and stroll to the store to replenish our stores plus a few extras.

Upon our return we fired up Johan the Phantom and pointed Oriane into a stiff breeze that came directly from our intended destination. With a zoom meeting dictating our arrival we chose to motor recharging our batteries and devices as we made our way to the west cove of Pickering Island. It’s a place where I had never been, to spend the afternoon and the overnight protected from the current and forecasted strong winds. We found the cove pleasantly calm after a rather bouncy but thankfully short crossing from Bucks. 

Another exercise session, dinner, and a game of cribbage, we prepared the cockpit for the night, went below, turned on the anchor light and called it a day.

123 nm since leaving Rockland eleven days ago.

July 14.

After a 3 blanket night, breakfast of Cheerios and berries was taken in the cockpit with Pickering and other assorted surrounding islands in the middle and far distance and swooping Ospreys as our morning entertainment. After Kathy finished her morning work, Oriane cleared the cove and headed to inspect another cove on Pickering. We ended up circumnavigating Pickering avoiding numerous sunkers both seen and unseen. Oriane passed by the lovely Barred Islands deciding that with the predicted weather we would ask our friend Paul if his mooring in Pulpit was available for the night. It was so we sought the protection of this excellent harbor.

Wind was directly on the nose. Kathy did an extended trick at the wheel all the way in past Pulpit Rock with its ancient osprey nest perched on top, to the mooring. Speed prevents me from running forward to pick up the mooring so we traded places and Kathy goes to the bow to pick up and secure the line.

Another business Zoom call late afternoon then dinner and a game of rummikub accompanied by Latin music on WERU, 89.9 fm Blue Hill. They have eclectic programming on the best volunteer radio station on the planet.

139 nm for the cruise.

July 15

Oriane spent the day in Pulpit Harbor. So did the crew. Sunrise was unusual as wildfire smoke in the air was so thick that it turned the Sun bright red and one could look directly at it. It seemed small compared to when it’s blazing on a clear day.

We abandoned ship late morning taking Porcine to the dock at the head of the harbor. The crew walked the familiar road uphill to the island’s market for some exercise. Another spectacular day interrupted only by Kathy’s need to spend time talking with clients about their marketing needs.

Drinks and snacks were enjoyed in the cockpit with Paul and Dawn (sv/Bubu) whose mooring we have used occasionally when in Pulpit. It’s interesting to hear others sailing and life adventures. Dawn and Paul are no exception. A bunch of the early evening was spent discussing the finer points of going beyond Roque Island to sail in the Bay of Fundy and Passamaquoddy Bay.

A nice sunset was appreciated while the crew completed a challenging game of Rummicub.  Kathy won so the score is now 1-1.

The anchor light was lit, the crew watched the rest of a movie below decks then turned in for the night.

July 16 day 14 of the 250th Anniversary Cruise.

We arrived at the Rockland Public Landing at 11:30 after the 12 nm crossing from Pulpit Harbor on North Haven Island. Rain was threatening and the weather radar showed strong storms with wind were heading our way.

We docked port-side-to pointing Oriane’s bow into the coming weather. A cruise ship was on another section of dock 50 feet off our stern.

After  we were  secure we strolled to the harbor side farmers market in the park at the top of the dock Then Kathy went off to the grocery store and the captain started getting the boat ready for guests arriving  tomorrow at 10 AM. Excess unnecessary gear was excavated from Oriane and remanded to the car.

Alec Binder our engine mechanic arrived at quarter past noon. A wire had gotten pinched under the valve cover during a previous service. This very minor issue was successfully addressed.

Kathy got back and groceries were stored.

Friendship sloops were out racing in the harbor and a cruise ship was dealing with passengers and loading supplies. It was a perfectly lovely summer afternoon.

But the western sky was growing darker.

All of a sudden the skies opened up and for 18 minutes recorded winds peaked at 70 knots.

The wind pressure against the side of the  cruise ship resulted in the ship pulling a piling and a dolphin (3 pilings lashed together) out of the bottom into which they had been pounded. Docks to which the ship was tied were lifted clear out of the water.  Heavy cleats ripped from other sections of dock hung askew or were sent to the bottom.  Four people were in the water. 

For a few long minutes the ship was out of control.

Meanwhile the sloops were hit by the wind wall. All kinds of carnage ensued. Boats broke masts; sails were shredded.

A boat capsized in the south end of the harbor.

Black smoke belched from the ship’s stack. By this time the ship had been blown 90 degrees and was drifting out of control threatening to take out a bunch of moored boats. The captain struggled to get the ship back under control. While doing his best the ship’s stern destroyed the deck of the Safe Harbor dock house. The ship suffered four broken windows.

The wind was accompanied by blasting rain. One of the ship’s passengers didn’t get back to the ship in time and was on the dock next to us so we insisted that she come aboard to get out of the weather.

We had ringside seats for all this fun. As planned with our bow to the wind and our stout dock lines and large fenders deployed, we were perfectly safe.

After the fracas hot showers ashore were taken and an early dinner ashore was enjoyed.

When we were walking the dock out to Oriane we remarked to each other how low the tide seemed.

We fired up Johan the Phantom, and Kathy retrieved the dock lines and stepped aboard. I put the gearshift in forward and nothing happened. I put it reverse with the same result. My first thought - the prop had fallen off. Or the shaft had pulled out of the transmission coupler or the transmission had given up the ghost. What???  We were disconnected from and on the inside of the U-shaped dock with hard stuff on 3 sides of us  with no steerage nor propulsion.

Kathy warped us back and secured the bow, stern and aft spring line. I got on the dock while Kathy got to the helm. First was to see if we had a prop. Yes we did. Next to put in forward to see if the prop responded. It did. Next reverse. Again the prop spun appropriately. ???

Then it dawned on me, we were aground. I turned on the depth sounder and sure enough it read 0.1 ft under the keel. So we secured the machinery and went below to wait for the tide to lift us enough to escape.

Half an hour later the tide was one hour past low which means that 1/12 of the tide or approximately 1’ of water should be under our keel. We disconnected from the dock for a second time. With Johan the Phantom set to idle forward Oriane’s bow slowly turned towards the clear opening. I watched the depth sounder like a hawk. 0.3….0.2…..0.5……0.9.  Slowly we got to deeper water and finally made our way to our mooring.

It’s been a weird but good day.

250th Anniversary Cruise July 17 day 15

Our friends Chris and Rose Ellms arrived at 0930 to join us for a weekend cruise. Oriane threaded between the dock face and the Prock Marine tug and barge which was there to effect repairs to the town dock damaged by the cruise ship during the previous day’s storm. The western wind was up promising a fine day of sailing.

We flew across the 6 miles to the Fox Island Thorofare entrance running downwind in 17-20 knots of wind with a building following sea. The fine sailing continued on flat water after we passed the Fiddlers Ledge granite monument marking the entrance of the Fox Island Thorofare.

We were going to stop in Perry Creek for lunch but the sailing was so good that the crew voted to continue on and have lunch underway. Sandwiches were passed up the companionway as North Haven disappeared behind Iron Point. Passing Goose Rocks spark plug light, the fourth lighthouse passed today, we continued on out to cross Isle au Haut Bay. Chris took the helm and practiced the recently learned finer points of lobster pot avoidance.

The visibility continued unlimited and the five mile crossing to Mark Island light slipped playfully by. The crew resumed sightseeing as Oriane entered the Deer Island Thorofare flying her sails wing on wing. As the fishing village of Stonington came abeam the sails were doused and Johan the Phantom was roused to allow the crew to spectate as we threaded through the myriad spruce and granite small islands. We briefly diverted our course to give the guests a chance to see up close the schooner Stephen Tabor which had anchored off Russ Island.

Resuming course we continued to dodge islands and lobster pots finally dropping the hook at McGlathery Island. We had covered 24nm in four hours.

The crew immediately took to the dinghy to make an amphibious assault on the beach.

The finer points of anchor position affected by tide and wind were discussed as Oriane came close to a nearby lobster pot.

Dinner of crab cakes on salad followed by fresh strawberry shortcake was taken in the cockpit followed by an inspiring sunset. Conversation resumed below deck to escape a possible onslaught of mosquitoes.

The lights went out and the crew retired at about nine thirty.

It’s been a great day.

250th Anniversary Cruise July 18 day 16

The forecast for the day was increasing winds during the day, increasing to 40 knots during the night and very windy on Sunday.

We left McGlathery mid-morning and headed towards Seal Bay to weather the storm. A close reach across Isle au Haut Bay followed an exit tour of the myriad islands of Merchants Row.  Sails got doused just outside of the entrance to Winter Harbor. I took Oriane and the crew for a peek at inner Winter Harbor before heading into Seal Bay to spend the night off Hay island. Seal Bay lived up to its name with a bunch of seals lounging on the rocks. 

We were happy to get to a place that I knew would be safe for the night. Rummicub was played before bedtime. The wind increased. The wind instrument was playing with high 20’s when it was turned off for the night. Late evening gusts came screaming with 40 knot sustained gusts whistles the rigging.

Everyone was awake from the noise and the motion as Oriane leaned over tacking back and forth as each gust buffeted her hull and rigging. The captain had a long night.

250th Anniversary Cruise July 19 day 17

After coffee and toast breakfast we were facing the prospects of 20-25 knots of wind and 2’-4’ breaking seas once out into Penobscot Bay after turning into wind on the nose for the crossing to Rockland. We planned to have Johan the Phantom due the heavy lift. It was all relatively flat past Widow and Birch Islands, Zeke and Iron points, past the village of North Haven and out to the Sugar Loaves. Interestingly, Navionics calls them “Fox Ears” but I find that hard to accept after 40 years of passing these two small islands which everyone calls the Sugar Loaves. Once Oriane turned west at the Fiddlers Ledge navigational monument the full force of the seas and wind hit us. The 6 nm mile fetch had built up significant breaking waves, occasionally sending a firehose of water over the deck into the dodger. Oriane was punching back with spray and waves being thrown aside. We made slow progress past Drunkards Ledge which provided a brief and minor but appreciated reduction in wave height. The fun continued for the hour and a half crossing. The waves slowly diminished from the shorter fetch as we got close to the Rockland breakwater. The waves had diminished but as typical the wind increased as we cleared past the breakwater lighthouse and made our way to Oriane’s home mooring.

After securing the mooring pendant, gear got organized and everything cleaned up and secured then the RYC launch arrived and we went ashore.

We put 200 nm under the keel during our cruise, saw many wonderful things, celebrated the 250th anniversary of our country and enjoyed the company of friends.

It was a good cruise.

Nothing further of consequence to report. 

Oriane is for Sale

 

With new adventures ahead of us, we have decided to put our beloved Oriane (PSC 37) up for sale. Oriane is ready for many more travels with her new owner.

Click here to view detailed listing and photos

send an email to psc37oriane@gmail.com if you or a friend has interest.

sv Oriane late August/ Labor Day Cruise

sv Oriane late August/ Labor Day Cruise

Sunday August 24, 2025

Oriane and her captain are out sailing with friends Joe McNulty and Cecily Rich.

Cecily met me in Rockland and we sailed across to Perry Creek where we waited for Joe to arrive in North Haven on the evening ferry. After collecting Joe and his gear we went back to Perry for the night.

It was a good day.

14.0nm

865.4nm for the season

Monday

We left Perry and made our way to the eastern end of the Fox Island Thorofare turned north up Isle au Haut Bay to Tom Cod Cove Holbrook Island which was almost deserted giving the crew the pick of any of the three guest moorings.

It was a good day.

20.5nm

885.4nm for the season

Tuesday

Today we left Holbrook Island at 9:30 AM, docked in Castine and did a walkabout to see the seal sculptures embedded in the sidewalk, the gardens, the town's coveted Elm trees and the town square. We picked up some ice and topped off the forward water tank. We sailed up into Stockton Harbor to take a look then tacked back and forth to our final destination in Cradle Cove, Gilkey Harbor. 27.2 nm over the ground, 8 hrs later including walking around.

It was a good day.

913nm for the season.

Wednesday morning, August 27, found Oriane riding quietly in Cradle Cove, Gilkey Harbor. Can't believe that the captain and crew finally got up at the crack of 8 o'clock. After coffee and a bowl of cereal I fired up the instruments and decided on a course. Once ready, we raised the main, backwinded the Genoa and released the mooring. A light breeze allowed us to ghost away from the anchorage.

A long tack to the opposite shore allowed us to fetch the buoy outside of Warren Island nicely passing shallows and the ferry Margaret Chase Smith at her Ilseboro landing.

We tacked down the bay then finally were able to head towards the passage south of Lassal Island that you take on your way to Pulpit Harbor. We put a reef in the main to make it more comfortable and manageable in the increasing wind. The storms coming from the west made us hurry and we were sailing pretty fast.

Outside Pulpit Rock we turned downwind furled the Genoa, then finally fired up Johan the Phantom for the first time of the day to push us upwind into the harbor. Johan succeeded in his job of pushing Oriane into the cove. We picked up a friend's mooring with permission. And cleaned up the boat.

Dinner in a while after the crew takes a break.

The storm came through and dropped a bunch of rain. When the rain stopped and the sun returned a magnificent double rainbow appeared over the harbor

It was a fun sail today.

It was a good day.

15.6nm over 3.5 hrs

928.7nm for the summer

Thursday

We motored back to Rockland to say goodbye to Cecily, do some shopping and pick up Kathy coming in from NH.

After casting off from the dock we had a romping sail back across the Bay with a reefed main and full genoa. We proceeded through Leadbetter Narrows and end up secure in Long Cove at the top end of Hurricane Sound.

For those keeping score, Joe won the first two- handed game of Cribbage and I won the three-handed game against Kathy and Joe coming from behind after Kathy started off with a substantial 38 point lead.

It's been a good day.

21.5nm for the day

98.8nm for the friends cruise

950.2nm for the summer

Friday

Coffee and omelettes in the cockpit pondering weather and destinations.

Dishes done and after initiating departure procedures Kathy received a need for crisis communication for one of her clients. Electronics and engine shut down so she could get things sorted out and sent off.

Meanwhile, the rest of the crew kept a weather eye out for predicted storms and watched eagles soaring in the breeze.

Dark menacing clouds were gathering to effect our day.

In the time we had before the storm hit, Joe and I tightened the backstay and checked the mast for plumb. Kathy remained below typing away furiously to help her client.

The crew cleared the deck and moved below as the rain began in earnest. The oven makes a good place to put small electronic equipment in a thunderstorm.

Another pot of coffee was made. The critical press release was sent out when one of the many devices caught the elusive cell signal unawares.

When one of the storms went past and before the next one on the radar would catch us we headed out to North Haven to get a stable signal so that Kathy could tie up some loose ends. We slowed way down so as to not catch the rain cell that was ahead of us. After a successful upload in North Haven, we struck off for Winter Harbor where I knew we would have excellent protection from the weather.

The wind piped up to 22 knots but Oriane made a good show of it motor sailing to charge the batteries. All the while we watched storm cell after storm cell march past to our northwest.

We motored into the approach to Winter Harbor past Starboard Rock, swung around the 2' spot and picked up and tested the vacant MDI mooring.

Secure, it was time to relax.

Tomorrow my friends John Tidd and Kelly Kahler ( both extraordinary former Vermont cross country ski area owners) come onboard in Rockland as we say goodbye to Joe who is flying back home to Seattle.

For those keeping score, Joe won the three-way cribbage game today. Kathy was a close second. I had some spectacular 2 point hands but was able to squeak past the skunk line.

It's been a good day.

11.1nm for the day

101.9nm for this cruise

961.3nm for the season

Saturday

We left Winter Harbor and headed to Rockland to change crews. Joe flew home to Seattle and John and Kelly from Vermont came aboard. It was afternoon and we decided to make it all the way to Merchant Row so pressed on past the Fox Island Thorofare. A big nasty storm system chased us across Isle au Haut Bay past Stonington. Our first choice anchorage was both crowded and exposed as was our primary backup. But close by I knew of an even better spot that I had been to before to heave our anchor overboard - Coombs Islands. We beat the storm to the anchorage at 20 minutes past 6PM then watched the storm veer well south of our position. Coombs is a lovely spot.

Sitting in the cockpit we toasted breaking 1000nm for the summer.

The evening's entertainment besides games was watching an eagle being harassed by seagulls.

Nothing further of consequence to report.

It was a good day.

40.7nm for the day

142.6nm for the cruise

1002nm for the summer

Sunday

After Kathy wandered around on her Kayak we raised anchor and took the Vermont boys for a tour through the numerous and beautiful islands of Merchant Row.

Once past Mark Island light, we raised sails and gave Johan the Phantom a much needed rest. The wind was light but we were in no rush so we glided with the incoming tide north towards our destination of the Barred Islands. It was a day of idol pleasures as the world went slowly by.

We arrived at high tide and anchored in 35' of water.

Games and sunset provided the evening entertainment.

It was a good day.

15nm for the day

157.6nm for the cruise

1017nm for the summer

Labor Day Monday

With yet another lazy start to the day and a short passage to Pulpit, slow progress under sail provided ample opportunity for relaxation.

We picked up a friend's mooring with permission and the men folk took Porcine to the town dock. Kathy took her kayak. We walked to the Market for exercise and a spot of lunch. On the return we sat on a picnic bench to contemplate the world around us. Before we loaded back into Porcine we walked to see some Chestnut trees that had survived the blighted to the isolation of the island. Upon our return John helped me with a couple of maintenance items then dinner and games.

It was a good day.

7nm for the day

165nm for the cruise

1024nm for the summer

Tuesday

It was an early start for the final day of our cruise. Kathy hand to get home for a meeting and the VT boys had a long drive home.

The did boat stuff then dropped the mooring line and headed to Rockland.

The below deck clean up and gear organizing was accomplished underway so that we could make a quick getaway once we got to our mooring.

We arrived at 9:40AM did final checks and took the launch ashore.

Thus ended the end of August/Labor Day cruise.

It was a good day.

11nm for the day

176nm for the cruise

1035nm for the summer

Sent from Thom's iPhone

Oriane Log Aug 2025 Cruise Down East

August 1, day 1

The multiple lists were checked off and the truck was loaded. Loaded being the operative word. After several hours of this we finally kissed the kitties see ya later at 9:30 am and arrived at the dock after a bunch of errands at 2:00 pm. Transferring the pile of stuff to the dock required multiple trips with the two of us each using a dock cart. I went out to Oriane at 2:30 on the RYC launch to bring Oriane to the dock. Gear and supplies were put aboard. Hannaford made some errors in our ToGo order so another trip back to the store and with the added dropping off the dregs of groceries and re-parking the vehicle our departure was delayed. Journeys End Marina was very generous letting us use their dock.  Whatever thought was going to take 20 minutes took 2 hours. We finally cast off at 4:30 and headed across the bay motor sailing at good speed. We passed a Navy ship that was anchored In Rockland for the lobster festival.  

It was an easy crossing with pretty calm seas and an easy breeze. 

The mooring in quiet Perry Creek was picked up at 6:05 pm. Kathy immediately got to work putting the groceries away. There’s a lot…..as we plan to be out for several weeks. Grand Manan, New Brunswick, Canada is again in our sights. With all the stuff we put aboard the waterline might be able to be found with a mask and snorkel. 

Dinner will be simple tonight. 

Post dinner cribbage game was hard fought with Kathy winning. A 21 point hand midway helped her a lot. 

Tomorrow we are heading to watch the start of the Eggemoggin Reach Regatta, an amazing spectacle of wooden boats. Then onwards. 

It’s been a strenuous but good day. 

11nm today
11nm for the cruise
531nm for the season 

August 2, day 2

Alarm went off at 0530 

Clear and cold overnight. 

Mooring dropped at 0640 and underway on flat calm water. 

Without any wind we headed east towards Eggemoggin Reach to watch the annual wooden boat regatta ETA four hours. Crossing Isle au Haut bay we dodged an orchard of lobster pots hidden in the reflection of a brilliant sunrise. The main was raised and the jib was added to boost our speed. 

We continued through the Deer Island Thorofare passing Stonington and all the islands of Merchant Row including Hell’s Half Acre. 

We headed up the Reach and through the moored fleet as they began to head to the start line. 

These boats are really working works of art. 

After the start we followed the fleet down the Reach then peeled off east through Casco Passage into and sailed wing on wing across Blue Hill Bay aiming at the Bass Harbor Bar. Since the tide was flooding the contrary current coming across the bar dropped our speed 2.5 knots. 

We jibbed over to make the green gong that marks the final approach to the MDI region. Overtaking power boats of all descriptions swarmed past tossing us in their wake. I’ve never seen Western Way so busy. Besides the gold platers there was yet another sail boat race through which we threaded to add to the fun. 

We dropped the main outside of the anchorage at Little Cranberry Island and had our fingers crossed that one of the town guest moorings would be free. 

Found it!  

Deck work of tidying up the main sail, securing the halyards, and coiling lines then time to relax. After a while Kathy launched her board and went exploring right to sunset. Dinner was wild caught Norwegian salmon with rice and blueberry avocado salsa. Yum. 

We plan on spending two nights here then launch towards Grand Manan on Monday. Tomorrow will be a clean up and organize the cabin day and other necessary stuff to get ready. By the time I finished cleaning up the galley it was time to hit the sack.  

It’s been a good day. 

41 .9nm for the day
52.9nm for the cruise
572.9nm for the season

August 3, day 3

Awake at 5 and lay-a-bed, well, just because. 

Today, we need to clean the speed impeller, sort out clothing, wash down the cockpit, change out the drinking water filter, make some sort of sense out of the gear tossed hastily into the quarter berth and a bunch of other small jobs before heading to the beach to clean Porcine’s bottom. 

Upcoming weather check preceded the mandatory first cup of coffee, breakfast of poached eggs on avocado toast with salsa was enjoyed in the cockpit. We have a wonderful view of Mt Desert from our cockpit to enjoy as we eat. 

Almost all the jobs were accomplished and a nice walk ashore including a stop at a kids lemonade stand was enjoyed. 

Tom Young and his wife said, “hey” as we strolled around. They have a very beautiful 1961 Alden Challenger named Christmas out of Rockport. 

A bouncy ride back to Oriane to allow us to relax before deciding to go ashore for happy hour. 

Back on Oriane after another mission ashore we had a delicious dinner of fresh scallops with local summer squash and brown rice. 

7:00/7:30 pm separate conference calls were made with two groups of friends coming on the boat later in August when Kathy goes home to work. 

For those keeping score, I won the nightly cribbage game. 

We puttered for a while then sack time. 

It’s been a good day. 

0 nm for the day
52.9nm for the cruise
572.9nm for the season

August 4, day 4 Cruise to Canada

After a rather cool three blanket night, coffee in the cockpit was restorative as we looked at the scenery through a haze of Canadian wildfire smoke.  Breakfast consisted of homemade granola on yoghurt with wild Maine blueberries. 

Tom Young’s Alden yawl “Christmas” rides on a town guest mooring in Little Cranberry Island harbor behind us with MDI in the background.  

The weather check looks good for heading to Canada starting today. The hurricane center site indicates that the storm off the SE coast is heading out to sea (unless, of course, someone gets out a sharpie). So that is not a factor. 

This morning Kathy has some work details to tidy up before we head to NE Hbr to top up fuel and water. From there we will point our bow east. 

For the last three trips down east I have been looking at a possible anchorage at Crumple Island south of Jonesport. Hopefully we will find it a good place to spend tonight. If not, the Cows Yard one of my all time favorite harbors, just 5 miles further, is our alternate.

Fueled, watered and washed down we left at 11:20 bound east.when one passes Schoodic Point one enters a world of big water, few services, and extraordinary experiences. I have made this passage more than a dozen times. I suspect that 99% of the boats on the coast of Maine have not been east of Schoodic. 

We raised ‘tit Manan light at 2:05 pm and standing about a mile and a half out enjoying a nice pick up from the start of the flood tide. 

We passed Tibbetts rock at 2:45 PM. Now that is a crazy piece of water. You’re cruising right along in depths over 100’ and all of a sudden there are two fingers of rock sticking up that could tear your bottom out. 

After looking once again at the weather, Crumple Island is going to wait for our return trip due to wind exposure tonight. We’re heading instead to one of our favorite places-The Cows Yard. We passed Mistake Light at 4:40 pm and doused sails. Then, turned Oriane’s bow into the anchorage passing Man Island. 

Anchor down at 4:59 pm. Nice to be back. 

Deck chores done, it’s time to relax. 

Kathy launched her kayak and took a tour of the surroundings. She chatted with the crew of a neighbor boat (there are three boats here). Zim, the owner, rode over to Oriane after talking to Kathy. He asked about the current situation with clearing customs both going and coming. I gave him my latest intel. 

It’s a lovely evening. Dinner then cribbage. 

Tomorrow an easier day. Cutler is less than 20nm miles from here. Doesn’t seem that far when you are used to driving a car, but we go at such a speed that butterflies sometime pass us. 

Calculating the departure time from Cutler to North Head Grand Manan on Wednesday. We have to have anchors up at 0615 to make the best of the tide. 

For those keeping score I won the nightly cribbage game but Kathy got beyond the skunk line. 

Below, dishes done, it’s time to re-relax by watching a movie. 

It’s been a good day. 

40.9nm for the day
93.8nm for the cruise
612.9 for the summer 

August 5, day 5

5:15 am. The sunrises continue to be hazy from the smoke from Canada. The Cows Yard anchorage is still as a mill pond with just a hint of gentle motion. The crew starts stirring and coffee is made. There’s a cool northerly breeze so today it’s served below decks where it’s cozy. We can just barely hear the lobster boys out of Jonesport rumbling in the distance. 

Yesterday during our travels, we encountered several bird species one does not regularly see west of Schoodic. These included a Puffin, Northern Gannets, Sooty Shearwaters,  Buffleheads and Razor Billed Auks. Here in the anchorage we hear Crows, Ospreys and Bald Eagles. 

Foss Mountain blueberry pancakes for breakfast in the cockpit. I Yum. 

It’s going to be a lazy morning waiting for the afternoon tide to make the short 19nm jump to Cutler. Then planning to make an O’early hundred start to catch the tide to North Head Grand Manan Island. The currents are starting to get serious around here. 

We called Grand Manan’s new Wharfinger Landon Green (506-321-1149) to see about dockage tomorrow. He’s checking on availability and will call back. These things take time. 

Dockage is $60 CAN ($43.50 USD)/night. A little bit different than the $150+/night in Portland. 

Landon messaged me that we can raft up with the “Crimson Tide 2002” at the dock. We will clear customs tomorrow after we dock. 

Our two neighbor boats departed and during a lull in lobster boat activity within sight the crew took the opportunity to take cockpit showers. Now we’re all clean and ready for the flesh pot’s of metropolitan Cutler (pop. 525) the last harbor before crossing into Canada. Anchor up at 1:30 pm. 

Kathy prepared food for later consumption then went paddling around the nearby islands. 

At 1:15 the engine was checked over then started instruments were turned, on final navigation was checked, deck wash was turned on to clear the anchor chain of any mud and the in harbor nav after anchor off the bottom was reviewed. The anchor chain was washed as it came up and Kathy went to the helm when the anchor came off the bottom to control the boat as I finished up getting the anchor onboard. After securing the anchor and stowing the deck gear off we went. We raised the main  but there is not a lot of wind. 2.7 knots apparent. 

Our SOG kept creeping up as time passed and the flood current commenced. We use our auto pilot a lot but Oriane has a penchant to spot lobster pots and head directly towards them so constant vigilance is required to avoid an unfortunate mishap. 

At approximately 4:25 we pass the 26 large imposing radio towers that the Navy uses to communicate worldwide with the US submarine fleet. They glow blue at night. 

Our SOG keeps climbing as we pass the towers to 7.2 knots up from 5.2 as we left the Cows Yard. We expect more as the current increases. 

Our arrival time is a little after 5:00 pm. 

We’ve been watching Grand Manan grow ever since leaving the Cows Yard. We’re really close now. It’s only 13nm away to the closest point. We are only 26nm from North Head Harbor. We will clear customs tomorrow when we arrive. 

We got advice about a mooring to use which makes it easier tomorrow morning to leave early in the morning. 

Dinner taken in the cockpit was delicious. A close game of cribbage was won by Kathy. 

It’s been a good day. 

19.9nm for the day
113.6nm for the cruise
632.8nm for the season 

August 6, day 6 Canada Cruise 

4:00 am. As I lie in my berth I am listening to the awakenings of this working harbor. The Cutler lobstermen have nothing to prove. Their boats are relatively quiet and they leave their moorings at a leisurely pace without leaving much of a wake. 

4:50 am. Sunrise is beautiful from the still harbor. The crew is stirring and the coffee is started. 

A simple breakfast is consumed so that we can drop the mooring and catch the tide up the bay. 

Johann the Phantom was fired up, navigation was completed and the mooring was tossed at 6:00 am. We pointed the bow out into the Grand Manan Channel where the current will speed us to Canada. The entire passage we could see our destination in the clear weather we are experiencing. 

It’s a small tide so the ground speed maxed out at only 7.2 knots. 

We crossed Long Eddy at the north end of the island where the turbulence put on quite a show.  We saw minke and finback whales, porpoises, seals and birds of all sorts including multiple puffins but not the Killer Whale that was hanging around the last time we were here 2 years ago. 

The Grand Manan ferry closed in rapidly but we beat it into the docking area so we were not a hindrance for them. 

Landon, the island wharfinger, met us at the dock and after formalities of dock paperwork and clearing customs we were about to take a breath when a boat showed up. It seems that Landon put us in an active spot so we moved Oriane and rafted up with two large fishing boats. 

Finally settled we went ashore and strolled to the Seaquel restaurant for lunch. 

After lunch we walked to Swallowtail light then back to the harbor. After returning to the boat we discussed what we want to do next. The crew independently and unanimously decides that a return to Saint Andrews in Passamaquoddy Bay is a great idea. The captain calculated the course/speed/distance then consulted the tide tables. All things considered it dictates a 5:30 am departure from Northhead in order to get into Passamaquoddy Bay with its fierce tides and currents. 

The weather has been spectacular with clear skies and sunshine. I’ve been here a number of times and seen nothing due to zero viz fog. This time is one of the good ones. 

As we sit in the cockpit a local fisherman named Brad stopped by and spent the better part of a half an hour swapping stories. It was quite entertaining and enlightening. 

Landon stopped by to finish up our dealings for the dockage and to lend a hand redoing our lines to make it easier to depart early tomorrow morning. 

It’s been a good day 

25.6nm for the day
139.2nm for the cruise
658.4nm for the cruise 

August 7, day 7 Canada Cruise 

0400 rolled around early. We had to get going so coffee on and a simple breakfast of homemade granola on yoghurt with Foss Mtn blueberries. The tide to get into Passamaquoddy Bay does not permit lingerers to pass. We have a time window and this is when we have to go. 

Nav instruments, running lights and steaming light are turned on, the course is plotted and finally Johann the Phantom is fired up. Warm clothes including my down jacket and watch cap along with my inflatable PFD are donned. 

At 0500 Kathy, making a similar fashion statement, goes to the bow and retrieves the line connecting Oriane to the large fishing boat to which we are rafted. I release the stern line and Kathy moves to midships to release the spring line as I ease the transmission into reverse to position ourselves to exit the snug harbor area. In forward, the sky has a hint of dawn as we clear the massive breakwater. Our course takes us through the area of numerous whale sightings around Grand Manan. We keep our eyes open. What small amount of wind there is comes far forward and is not conducive to setting the sails. We clear the northeast end of the island and set the auto pilot on course. With no lobster pots to be concerned about we can take a relaxed attitude and spend time looking for whales rather than worrying about lobster traps every 10 seconds like when we’re in Maine. 

We spy a couple of fin backs.  

Two and a half hours later we get close to the entrance into the Bay where all the fun begins and I start doing some serious captaining stuff. This is big water and we are anticipating a significant increase in ground speed. We sweep through Letitte passage avoiding the many well marked ledges. Our ground speed increases from 5.5 knots to 10.4 knots. I’ve been in these waters many times and enjoy the ride. It’s like sailing on boiling water. There are rips and upwelling swirls and the landscape goes by at impressive speed. 10.4 is not the fastest I’ve ever been going through here. The tide range today is less than the max. It’s a moon thing. I’ve been through doing 12.8 knots SOG so 10.4 is a walk in the park. 

Once in the bay it’s a quiet, relaxing 6 mile crossing to St. Andrews. 

We had a mooring reserved and upon entering the harbor the assistant Wharfinger can out in his dinghy to guide us to the mooring. We secured the engine at 10:30 am. 

After cleaning up the deck stuff and organizing our gear we put our electric dinghy motor on Porcine and headed to town to the farmers market, lunch, strolling around the busy shops and finally getting in a shower before heading back to the boat to relax. 

Kathy won the Rummycub game. 

We went ashore for dinner.

Nothing further of consequence to report. 

It’s been a good day. 

27.3nm for the day
166.5nm for the cruise
685.7nm for the summer 

August 8, day 8 Canada Cruise 

Lounged in our berths before finally making coffee at 7:30 am (Atlantic time) and enjoyed sipping it in the cockpit while watching St. Andrews harbor come awake. 

A day ashore is planned and next destinations are discussed. We get a message from our friend Lee Spiller who’s currently cruising in Newfoundland that a large storm that recently was predicted to be a factor here is no longer a threat. Good to hear. 

After clearing up the cabin, while listening to pleasant classical music, Kathy made a big breakfast while I spent time figuring out the tide schedule in order to make our way eventually back to Bar Harbor to go to a concert on the 16th.

Looks like tomorrow after a leisurely morning, we will catch the afternoon ebb tide down Western Way pass the Old Sow whirlpool visit the Roosevelt Cottage then to the north end of Campobello Island and overnight in Head Harbor. 

Sunday’s destination is still to be determined. 

Kathy spent time inventorying the food onboard and making a shopping list for when we go ashore. 

After dishes we’re going ashore to walkabout. 

Ashore we caught the free “Hop on/Hop off” bus to see the stone cross and Heart of Stone sculpture then walked up to the amazing 27 acre formal garden next to the Algonquin Hotel. After wandering through the garden we headed back to the harbor area for lunch and groceries then dinghied back to Oriane for a relaxing rest of our day.

Plans for returning to the USA were considered and based on timing of the tides we will head to Head Harbor Campobello tomorrow then see how far down the coast we can get in the chop of the SW winds against the afternoon ebb tide before sunset. 

A simple dinner of fresh corn on the cob and a salad was enjoyed then the daily cribbage game. Reading and an episode of House finished our day. 

For those keeping score, I won the cribbage game. 

It’s been a good day. 

0nm for the day
166.5nm for the cruise
685.7nm for the summer

August 9, day 9 Canada Cruise 

A lazy start to our morning as we had to wait for the afternoon tide to get out of dodge. We dinghy ashore to enjoy breakfast at a local restaurant. Just as we are finishing, we hear a community band tuning up. Trumpets, tuba, and other band instruments start playing a piece and we gravitate to the outdoor sound. A modest crowd gather to enjoy the music. We sit for a while thoroughly entertained. Then we stroll on eventually returning to the harbor area. We asked Blair, St. Andrews’ Wharfinger, about docking to top off our forward water tank. We come alongside at noon take on water. We’ve used about 15 gallons since leaving Clifton Dock 6 days ago. 

Leaving the harbor we motored into a 17 knot headwind pointing towards Westerly Passage and the increased ground speed of the ebbing tide six miles away. When we get to the passage the wind angle is such that the jib is deployed and the engine is stopped. 

The Roosevelt Cottage seemed attractive for a short visit and while we got close we realized that the hassle factor was pretty high and the tide was calling so we continued on running downwind under jib towards our destination for the day Head Harbor. It’s one of me very favorite harbors of all time. Not for everyone. It’s very local, it’s very “industrial”. The harbor, while dormant now due to the fishing season regulations, is full of large boats. I can almost hear the humming of anticipation for the coming season. There are long delimbed spruce tree fish weir stakes lying in wait to replace/repair/rebuild the area’s fish traps. Each weir has a name. There are stake driver floats and numerous floating lobster shacks. 

When we arrived we were lucky to find James aboard his Alyssa & Brittany who not only graciously allowed us to raft up but helped secure Oriane’s lines.

Johann the Phantom was secured at 5:19 pm. 

When talking to James I found out that he has owned his large lobster boat for three years. When I commented to James on the size of the Bay of Fundy boats compared to Maine lobster boats, he said, “Mainers build their boats for speed, here we build them for comfort.” I can’t even begin to imagine how rough it gets up here during the winter lobster season. 

Relaxing commenced followed by dinner. 

We hope to meet up in the next few days with our friends Tom and Robin coming back from Nova Scotia. 

For those keeping score Kathy won tonight’s cribbage game. 

Lying in bed I calculate tomorrow’s departure time.  11:30 am. 

Nothing further of consequence to report. 

It’s been a good day. 

20.8nm for the day
187.3nm for the cruise
706.5nm for the summer

August 10, day 10 Canada Cruise

Out of the sack at 7 am local time for coffee in the cockpit. The world of Head Harbor awakens to another clear sunrise. The myriad gulls that populate the place sure like making noise. It’s low tide so the pier looms from a considerable height and seaweed drapes the shorelines all around the harbor. 

We get a message from Robin on Althea that they departed Shelburne, NS @ 5:00 this morning and will try to meet us at Roque Island tomorrow if all goes well. 

I take another pass at calculating our departure time and checking the weather. This can be a tough place from which to escape. Except for the timing of the tide today is about as good as it gets - the prediction of 5-10 knot winds means that it should be a fairly comfortable day. An afternoon high tide makes Cutler or Cross Island a likely place to land. We have to have cell service to clear back into the USA so Cutler is probably the winning choice.

Kathy made avocado toast with poached egg for breakfast. Yum. 

Kathy dropped her kayak into the water and went exploring about the harbor. 

I do the breakfast dishes and straighten up the cabin. 

We wait. We want to leave. We’re ready. Oriane is cleaned, strapped down and still sitting tied to Alyssa & Brittany. The tide isn’t ready to let us escape. Three knot contrary current in the Grand Manan Channel just isn’t conducive to our leaving. We read, draw, listen to NPR and the gulls, gaze about the harbor and we wait. 

By waiting we will benefit from the outgoing tide will add up to 3 knots to our ground speed towards Cutler. 

We finally departed Head Harbor at 12:20 DST and headed out the channel. Fog closed in so the fog horn and nav lights were activated. 

When we turned to starboard to head out into the Bay it was immediately apparent that the wind forecast was not as predicted. 

The wind topped out at 24+ knots. 

Needless to say that with the tide going out against such a wind that it got pretty nautical. Torrents of spray came across the deck and into the cockpit from over the port side. At least our foul weather jackets kept our tops dry and warm. Oriane shouldered aside 4-5’ waves every 3-4 seconds the bow pitching up and down 5-8’ at each wave. Oriane is a rugged ocean boat. While uncomfortable, we felt completely safe in the cockpit and soldiered on. After a couple hours and after crossing the international boundary back into the USA the wind dropped to 12-14 knots and the waves subsided to a reasonable level while sliding along at upwards of 9 knots SOG. BTW the water temperature is 48f in the Bay. 

Still out in the bay while bouncing along we had a good cell connection so I submitted the CBP application to clear in. After a short while we did a video interview and received our clearance. We did have to throw overboard one lemon and two limes at the request of the CBP officer while he watched on video. 

The balance of the passage to Cutler was pretty uneventful. Back in US waters we again kept watch for lobster pots. 

At 4:05 pm EDT we secured to the same mooring in Cutler that was offered to us on our outbound leg. 3:45 to make the trip averaging 6.75 knots start to finish. I complemented Kathy on being such good crew. 

Happy hour commenced followed by a game of cribbage. For those keeping score, despite crummy cards, Kathy did not skunk me. 

Well deserved relaxation continued while listening to the Metropolitan opera recording of “The Marriage of Figgerio”while eating dinner in the cockpit. 

Nothing further of consequence to report. 

It’s been a good day.

25.2nm for the day
212.5nm for the cruise
731.7nm for the summer

August 11, day 11 Canada Cruise

We hung around Cutler for the morning enjoying a good walk ashore including a mission to the library to download some movies and a stop at Little River Lobster to acquire some dinner. 

At 12:15 pm we dropped the mooring and headed back out to continue west towards Lakeman Harbor, Roque Island to rendezvous with our friends on Althea. We were catching the ebb tide. The radar and fog horn were on as we were heading into zero visibility fog. We had 10 second warning for lobster pots for two and three- quarter hours. Off Old Man Island we encountered a wicked tide rip with 4-5’ waves 2-3 seconds apart that lasted for about 1.5 miles. The wind angle improved after passing outside of Cross Island. We dodged pots all the way to Roque where the fog finally scaled up. We turned the corner into Lakeman and spied Althea riding quietly on her anchor with Tom and Robin waving hello. 

We dropped our anchor at 3:15 PM and got tidied up. Tom and Robin came over in their dinghy so we could tell tales and swap lies. 

Lobster dinner in the cockpit under a clear blue sky. 

For those keeping score I won tonight’s cribbage game. 

It’s been a good day.

15.9nm for the day
228.4nm for the cruise
747.6nm for the summer

August 12, day 12 Canada Cruise

I woke up to the sound of Bald Eagles chirping at the edge of mirror still Lakeman Harbor and luxuriated in my berth for an additional hour. Kathy made coffee and I joined her in the cockpit to enjoy it and the warm sunshine. 

The tide range here is only 14’. Piece of cake compared up in the Bay of Fundy. 

Our mission today is to go for a walk and then have a picnic on Roque Island’s great beach. This day is going to require sunglasses. 

Around 12:30 Althea’s crew came in their dinghy, we climbed in and motored to the great beach for the picnic. We strolled the beach and admired the vista. 

Due to weather issues we decided to move to The Cows Yard to stage ourselves for an early departure back to Mt. Desert area. There’s some nasty weather approaching and we have concert tickets for Saturday. If we don’t go tomorrow it would get real nautical and we had enough of that recently. If we can’t get into NE Harbor we’ll go to little cranberry. 

The passage to The Cows Yard took us through Roque’s narrow, unmarked, lobster pot strewn Thoroughfare. No big deal. I’ve been through a number of times. It’s pretty scenic. The 10-14 knot winds at the exit of the thoroughfare was perfect for sailing down to the SE corner of Harbor Island. Dousing the jib we motored into the anchorage. 

Mocktails and chips before Kathy started dinner. 

For those keeping score I won tonight’s cribbage game. 

It’s been a good day.

8.0nm for the day
236.4nm for the cruise
755.6nm for the summer

August 13, day 13 Canada Cruise

4:30 am came and I lay in bed for the 5:00 am alarm. Last night I calculated that we could get to NE Harbor with a 6 am anchor up. Quick breakfast of cold cereal with almond slices and blueberries. The container of milk got put in the freezer by mistake so it was really cold cereal. 

5:40 Johann the Phantom was fired up, instruments on, navigation programmed, fuel level checked and consumption calculations made, deck wash turned on and anchor raised. We were getting ahead of bad weather coming in starting tomorrow that would make it much harder to make this leg of the trip. Today the wind was both light and on the nose. The current would be with us for about 3 hours, go slack then turn against us. But we would be back in the area where current is nothing compared to where we had recently been. 

We spent the morning constantly dodging lobster pots. Sometimes vast fields of them. ‘Tit Manan Lighthouse was visible again as we passed westbound. 

We finally turned into the channel leading into NE Harbor and got on a mooring at 12:30.  

Ashore for a bit of wandering around and to take a shower. Back on Oriane - afternoon snacks and a Dark and Stormy. 

For those keeping score Kathy won today’s cribbage game. 

The ship’s cook is taking the night off so ashore for dinner.

Fog snuck into the harbor while we were dining ashore but had no trouble returning to Oriane. Tom stopped by and we had a grand time telling stories.   

I played a few songs on my guitar.  It’s nice to have new strings on your guitar. 

Nothing further of consequence to report. 

It’s been a good day.

37.6nm for the day
274nm for the cruise
793.2 nm for the summer

August 14-16, day 14-16 Canada Cruise

We are in NE Harbor for 4 nights. Nothing to report other than we enjoying the offerings of Mount Desert Island. 

Will update when we start moving again or if something exceptional happens. 

For those keeping score, I won tonight’s cribbage game. 

Every day is a good day.

August 17, day 17 Canada Cruise

We got back from Bar Harbor at 11:45 pm after a wonderful day ashore including a carriage ride in Mr. Rockefeller’s carriage roads followed by dinner with Tom and Robin from Althea and Art and Beth from Hobbitship. After dinner we saw Chris Thile in concert. He’s a monster mandolin player. 

Sunday morning coffee, breakfast and chores. 

We departed the NE Harbor mooring and stopped at Clifton Dock for fuel and water. Then made our way lazily under jib alone past Valley Cove and Flying Mountain to the top end of the only true fjord on the east coast of the US - Somes Sound.  Lunch was served underway.  In the pool in Somesville we found a mooring. It was a short distance but a large change in surroundings. From a busy bustling harbor with lots going on to a quiet anchorage with no commercial services only 4 miles as the eagle flies away. After deck chores, relaxation commenced. 

More later if of consequence. 

For those keeping score Kathy trounced me winning with me thankfully 1 point past the Skunk Line. 

It’s been a good day. 

6.5nn for the day
289.5nm for the cruise
799.7 nm for the summer

August 18, day 18 Canada Cruise

Oriane and her crew woke up late (7:00 am) finding themselves secure in Somesville. All aspects of storms had past and the wind and weather were perfect for a downwind sail through the glacially carved fjord to visit Southwest Harbor. We docked at the upper town landing which is within convenient walking distance to town. 

We stopped at Bub’s Burritos and had a fabulous and reasonably priced lunch. The portions were so large that we brought half back to the boat for dinner. 

Oriane was pinned to the dock by the wind so we sprung off the bow. Uncharacteristically Oriane’s stern obeyed and we backed off the dock without making a spectacle of ourselves. 

We put a single reef in the main when we turned into the wind between the coast guard station and Greening Island then fell off and put out the jib as we turned to course. 

The wind did what was predicted. We were running wing on wing downwind southbound through Western Way. We jibbed the main At the Long Ledge lighted green gong buoy 1 and headed towards Bass Harbor Bar. 

The wind got a bit squirrelly left and right and up and down on speed which required constant trimming. In Western Way we saw a max gust of 24 knots generally steady at 13-18.  Across the Bar the wind dropped temporarily to 3 knots before returning to 10-12 on a close reach. Oriane’s ground speed hit 7.9 knots over the Bar. 

The crossing of Blue Hill Bay was event less. We furled the jib then rounded up to drop the main when we got to the harbor. We chose a good spot to drop the anchor and after post sail chores it was time to relax. 

For those keeping score I beat Kathy by a comfortable amount in Cribbage. 

It’s been a good day. 

18.6nm for the day
308.1nm for the cruise
818.7nm for the summer

August 19, day 19 Canada Cruise

Back in the region were them lobster boys like their boats loud and fast. It was 4 am when the rumbling sound began to penetrate my slumber. 

I dozed in and out thinking about “stuff” finally giving in at 6:00 am to the need to start coffee as required by the rest of the crew to put off any mutinous tendencies. 

The cockpit was dry so we took coffee and breakfast while gazing at the harbor’s vistas. 

Today we plan a short passage to anchor in Hell’s Half Acre. It’s less than 9nm and with the fairly light winds it should be an easy, gentle sail. 

The crew boarded Porcine to shuttle to the Buckle Island’s north beach. A delightful stroll out to the north ledges then south through the iconic green “Etherea” door to look for the island’s fairies’ houses. I figure that the fairies must be nomad. Rather than rebuilding their houses after a winter retreating into the denser forest in the middle of the island where it’s warmer, in spring they build new ones. We tried to spy every new fairy house and consider the architectural design features employed. Every house is unique. 

Back on Oriane, lunch was served. The destination was agreed to and anchor raising strategy was discussed prior to weighing the well set 20 kg Mantus. 

Oriane motored out through the western end of York Narrows and turned into the wind, we raised her main, fell off to course and launched the jib. A very pleasant beam reach sail across Jericho Bay ensued. 

We poked our bow into the Camp Island anchorage but decided to go around the corner and anchored in Hell’s Half Acre instead. Fewer boat wakes. 

After cleaning up the deck and lines a Cribbage game broke out. For those keeping score Kathy won. 

Apps followed. 

Boat baked focaccia and vegetable pasta was prepared, presented and consumed for dinner. 

It’s been a good day. 

8.3nm for the day
316.4nm for the cruise
827nm for the summer

August 20, day 20 Canada Cruise

Hell’s Half Acre started to get noisy at 7:00 AM when Prock Marine resumed work building a new pier that reaches out into the anchorage from Bold Island. 

Andy and Gay Howe came by at 9:00 for coffee and to catch up. 

Kathy launched her kayak and tooled about the anchorage. When back we checked in on Hurricane Erin and made calls to find out what folks back in Rockland are expecting for impacts. Seems relatively benign with some surge. We plan to return to Rockland on Saturday. 

We raised anchor and headed west through the Deer Island Thorofare past Stonington and out into Isle au Haut Bay. An uneventful crossing to the Fox Island Thorofare eventually ending up in Perry Creek. I took Kathy to shore so she could hike up to elevation to get a cell signal for a business call. We agreed to meet at 5:00 pm. Back on the boat, my guitar got some exercise. 

At the appointed hour, she appeared out of the woods as I brought Porcine to the trailhead at the shoreline. 

A cribbage game before dinner ensued.  

The clouds at sunset put on a magnificent display. 

Nothing further of consequence to note. 

For those keeping score Kathy won by a small margin. 

This is my 66th day on Oriane this summer. It’s been a good day. 

12.5nm for the day
328.9nm for the cruise
839.5nm for the summer

August 21, day 21 Canada Cruise

We’re moored in Perry Creek thinking that we would wait out the wave effects of Erin. It was a three blanket night. The captain made coffee and the crew lit the cabin heater. 

This morning’s brilliant golden sunrise is the reason we gave Oriane her name. The sun came up gold at the eastern entrance to Perry Creek before turning blazing white against the blue sky. 

Recreational options for the day were discussed including a walk on the trails, scrabble, cribbage, playing music, drawing and exploring the shoreline in the dinghy. However, when we listened to the weather forecast it initiated a discussion about heading back today vs Saturday vs Sunday. The decision was made to go back today to Rockland and head home after cleaning up the boat. It will be good to see the kitties. 

We motored back to Rockland with very light wind and a pretty flat sea. Below decks clean up while underway. 

At the Town Landing we off loaded 3 1/2 dock carts of stuff, finished cleaning up the boat, moved her back to her 11,000 lb. mooring, secured everything on and below deck, locked the companionway and sat waiting for the launch to pick us up. 

Ashore the crew got in the truck and headed home. 

So ended our 3 week cruise to the Bay of Fundy. 

It’s been a good day. It’s been a great trip. 

11.9 nm for the day
340.8nm for the cruise
851.4nm for the summer