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Passamaquoddy Bay Adventure

We’re gonna be testing the legs of a 1982 Pacific Seacraft 37 this summer. We become owners in May. We are planning to take our leave of our home harbor of Rockland, on July 27 for a two-week trip to Passamaquoddy Bay. Heading east of Schoodic is where I believe that the good stuff starts. I’ve made this trip many times and look forward to showing my wife and friends who are joining us with their boat, the joys of the water beyond Schoodic. The area has what I call “big water” where the safe harbors are sometimes far away and the waters are cold and exposed. The sights and fauna are worth all the preparation and effort.

Perry Creek

The plan includes joining up in Perry Creek, Vinalhaven as they arrive from Casco Bay in their Seafarer 38. If for some reason, they aren't able to make the trip, we'll go anyway. After anchoring for the night, we head towards sunrise and the Bay of Fundy.

The tide chart was inspected for tides before setting the departure date. This trip starts on a day when the flood tide is favorable for making distance and will be the same each day all the way until we clear Canadian customs. After a stay around the bay enjoying some marvelous anchorages, the tide turns and we will begin the trip home with a favorable return current.

On the dock in NE Harbor

Secure anchorages are spaced out for reasonable day trips. The plan is to leave from Perry and make a last civilized anchorage somewhere around SW or NE harbor. After that, we’ll pass outside lonely 'tit Manan lighthouse with the next harbors being the Cow’s Yard, Cutler, finally clearing customs in Head Harbor, Campobello, New Brunswick. We’ll either stay the night there or more likely move on to Saint Andrews. We expect to spy Northern Gannets, Terns, Storm Petrels, whales, sharks, comb jellies, Bald Eagles, Ospreys, Razorbill Auks, Puffins and more. We have a 360’ anchor rode which I use when heading up to the big tides of the Bay. Swinging room is not an issue…there are not many other boats up there to hit. We will frequently be alone at anchor.

Local Knowledge

The current east of 'tit Manan lighthouse tends to head into the harbors to the north of the desired course, so staying offshore a bit helps with forward progress.

The first harbor after leaving the busy civilized Mt Desert area is the Cow’s Yard. We’ll be passing the interesting granite geology of Red Head on the southern end of Great Wass. Then we’ll glide past Mistake Harbor and the lighthouse on Moosepeak Island. The Cow’s Yard is easy to enter and secure. Last time I was there, we were in 10’ seas outside and it was like a mill pond at anchor. Even with that sea state, the entrance is easy. Just follow the chart favoring Man Island to start, being aware of the rocky spit of land to starboard just before the Cow’s Yard. Last time I was there the entrance was guarded by a pair of Bald Eagles.

At anchor in the Cow's Yard

The next stop is Cutler. There is plenty of room to anchor. Just look around and pick an appropriate spot. Be careful of an eddy rip close inshore of the entrance to Little River. Stay off at least 1.5 nm from the entrance until it’s abeam. Also be aware of the abandoned salmon pen which one leaves to starboard as one enters. Lobsters are available and delicious. Groceries are 20 miles away.

Raising anchor in Cutler just before low tide, one heads out of the harbor and if the weather is clear, Grand Manan with its 400’ cliffs looms in the distance. Turning to port after leaving the harbor one starts up Grand Manan Channel. You can almost feel the acceleration as the tide takes hold and rushes you along. The few floats that are in the channel (no lobster pots as the season is closed in Canada at this time of year) though large are nearly dragged under by the tide. It’s inspiring to zoom by.

You’ll be leaving US waters after passing West Quoddy Head lighthouse. On the return trip a large flush of water out of Lubec Narrows makes a white water river feature with standing waves (even 2 miles out into the bay) which you cross at 90 degrees. It’s not difficult just visually interesting. Follow along Campobello with its cliffs and finally pass Scott Head, Mill Cove and Mill Cove Point just before turning into Head Harbor. Be aware that the three green spars on the last leg of going into the harbor which should be left to port – the shoreline will be to starboard.

Rafted to pile driver in Head Harbor

Expect to raft up with something floating. The whale watch boat was very welcoming when last there. Cell phone access was difficult, but there was a phone at the top of the dock with which to call CanPass. Customs officers may take the opportunity to visit the boat. From there, Passamaquoddy lays before you. Expect to clear your prop if you are motoring as the kelp will clog the wheel and slow you down by 2 knots. Clearing involves putting the machinery in neutral and then into reverse and increasing the RPMs dramatically then putting the gear back to forward and continue. Repeat every 10 to 15 minutes. And there is a LOT of kelp.

Also expect to be thrown around by the swirling tides. Again not dangerous, just amusing. It does take considerable concentration and a bit of aggressive steering action.

In St. Andrews - flying the Canadian courtesy flag

There’s three ways of entering Passamaquoddy Bay – 1. through Letite Passage (easiest). 2. Western Passage via Head Harbor Passage also easy but here you would get to see one of the world’s largest whirlpool if you’re lucky. You’ll most certainly see some small 1-2 meter whirlpools swirling past your boat. And 3. Little Letite Passage which you should forego until you have more experience with the tides and currents. I’ve been through Little Letite Passage and I’ve also turned around and not gone through. It’s a confusing and dangerous passage if one is not completely sure all is in order.

St. Andrews is a great place to re-provision. Water, Ice, groceries, showers, are all available. The harbormaster (Wharfinger) is extremely helpful.

There’s a long list of interesting harbors to explore. Northwest on Deer Island is fab; Chamcook is ok; the entrance of Magaguadavic River is a good anchorage and the river to the pool in St. George is fascinating. Anchoring in Digdequash Harbor off the northeast end of Long Island provides a memorable experience and is one of my all time favorite anchorages. Lord’s Cove, Back Bay also are interesting to visit.

Clear customs in Eastport before the turn of the tide and then head out around Campobello starting the return to the US. You can visit the Great Beach at Roque on your return but I would move to Bunker or Patten Cove for the night to avoid rolling to death off the beach.

So this turned into not only what we are planning but a bit of local knowledge for those who might be contemplating undertaking the adventure of leaving the familiar waters of the coast of Maine west of Schoodic.

It’s fun to plan a summer trip when it’s below freezing and the air is full of early spring snow.