July 2, 2025
Day 1 – Daily log
Planning and packing for an extended cruise takes a bunch of time. Variable weather clothing, food, gear and maintenance lists are involved. These tasks always take longer than hoped.
After loading the truck, we got underway at 7:45 AM arriving in Rockland at 10:30 AM at low tide to bring Oriane to the dock. We finally headed out of the harbor at nearly high tide 5 hrs later. Before we left Rockland harbor we needed to do the following in nearly 90f sweaty weather:
• Bring Oriane to the town dock
• Get groceries, load on and store
• Load on and store gear
• Install a new solar panel (170 watt old to 300 watt new)
• Clean the house battery terminals and re-tighten
• Clear tank vents (not a simple task)
• Move to Journeys End Marine dock
• Fill water tanks
• Check fuel level
• Park car for long term absence
• And finally showers.
Tasks done, we finally cleared the JEM dock at 4:30 pm. As soon as we got out into the harbor the sweltering temperature dropped.
Sails were raised, Johann the Phantom (our trusty diesel engine) was stopped and we enjoyed a wonderful downwind 11nm sail to Pulpit Harbor arriving at 7:20 pm. Fleece sweaters were donned as the temperature dropped during the passage. Dinner was served, dishes washed and our daily cribbage game ended with Kathy winning. With the anchor light turned on, we retired for the night.
It’s been a good day.
11nm for the cruise
325nm for the season.
July 3
Day 2 – Daily log
Pulpit Harbor was like concrete overnight; calm as could be. We had a leisurely morning, starting with coffee and breakfast in the cockpit. Kathy successfully tried out her new paddle board/kayak in salt water. I puttered on a couple of minor maintenance items and did the navigation prep while keeping an eye on the timing of the predicted late afternoon severe thunderstorms. We left Pulpit Harbor just before noon at the change of tide for the 14nm passage. The wind was light but the incoming tide produced a positive current. Our speed and distance calculations indicated that we would beat any storms to Tom Cod Cove Holbrook Harbor. We hoped that one of the three guest moorings would be available.
Lunch underway was a delicious salad.
I took a nice nap while Kathy took the helm all the way to the entrance to the harbor.
We doused sails and found one of the moorings open. After taking care of the boaty things upon arrival, both Scrabble and Cribbage boards were put into action. Kathy trounced me in scrabble and I took today’s edition of cribbage.
Our good friends Tom and Robin got in touch having successfully sailed their Tartan 38 “Althea” up from CT. As planned, they will be buddy boating with us for a couple of weeks. They will be joining us tomorrow after recovering at Matinicus from the overnight crossing the Gulf of Maine from the Cape Cod Canal. We plan to meet in Castine where we will enjoy the town’s festivities including a kids costume parade, town party and evening fireworks.
Dinner – Baked Halibut with artichoke hearts and herbs and boiled baby red potatoes.
It had been an easy good day.
14nm for the day
25nm for the cruise
339nm for the season
July 4
Day 3 – Daily log
Dawn broke and I was up and at’em at 4:30 AM. I’m an early riser.
Coffee comes first on this boat so it was prepped. The crew assembled in the cockpit to enjoy the still, warm summer morning. Eggs with red potatoes and avocado toast was next.
Kathy took advantage of the calm and paddled for a spell while I did the dishes and sparkled the galley.
The guest mooring was cast overboard at 9:00 AM to make the short run to Castine’s town dock.
The 4th of July festivities in Castine include the amusing kids costume parade, sack race, and more small town thingies. We did not escape the gravitational pull of the Castine Historical Society museum. Very interesting. The gravitational pull also involved take-out lobster roll lunches from the Trinity Church and beer from the town store for consumption on the boat. Upon getting back to the dock, we topped up the forward water tank and cast off and made the half mile trip across the harbor to a mooring for lunch, await the arrival of Althea and to position ourselves for the evening fireworks.
Waves of close friendship were exchanged as Althea arrived at 4:00 PM. We will get together on Oriane to watch the fireworks.
The NW wind blew up with a steady 20+ knots with the fireworks barge directly upwind. The forecast is for diminished wind backing to the West which will be okay for enjoying the show and not have any erratic sparks falling on the boat. We will keep the deck wash hose at the ready just in case. Or move if the wind stays up from the NW.
Kathy and I tried out a new song, listened to another to see if it would fit us and then played a couple of songs from our past repertoire to dust off some cobwebs.
Cribbage and wine in the cockpit. I won a squeaker with Kathy vowing to trounce me at scrabble later.
Fabulous fresh diver scallops are on the menu for the dinner.
The fireworks touched off at dusk to put a period to a really good day.
2.7nm for the day
28nm for the cruise
341.8nm for the season
July 5
Day 4 – Daily log
After coffee and breakfast in the cockpit we took the dinghy to pick up Robin and Tom at Althea to cross the harbor to town.
More coffee and a scone treat were consumed then the two crews commenced to wander around investigating a couple of gardens, viewing the town’s massive rare elm trees, the historic town square and the historical museum.
At the museum we found a display about Captain James H. Hale (1792-1821). My mother was a Hale. We are descendants of Thomas Hale (Nathan Hale’s brother). Seems likely but I don’t know if there is a family connection.
One of his log entries reads, “On the west coast of NW America “,“1819”, “Still a strong northwest gale and rough sea. Under short reefs + tumbling about at a great rate — nothing occurs of import.”
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| James H. Hale |
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| James' Ship Log |
The decision was made to have a short day today. After getting back to Oriane, we prepped for departure and dropped the mooring at 12:10 pm and headed out of the harbor. Destination Bucks Harbor. We had a delightful sail in 15 knots of wind tacking almost to Isleboro then back east across the bay. Once we cleared Cape Rosier the wind dropped for a while and we ghosted along until the wind picked up for a relaxed broad reach/run into the harbor. We picked up a Bucks Harbor yacht club guest mooring.
Our dinghy “Porcine” (inflatable which rows like a pig) was prepped for a trip to the newly upgraded outdoor shower at Bucks Harbor Marine. It’s a tradition to dream about during the non-sailing seasons.
Happy hour was enjoyed in conversation with Tom and Robin aboard Althea during which tomorrow’s destination options are discussed. Decision - Blue Hill Bay
I hear from my cousin Nan Hale that she and Ellie are vacationing close by and we will see them tomorrow for coffee at the town store.
Dinner was delicious- special sauce shrimp tacos with rice and beans.
13.4nm for the day, 3 hrs of nice sailing
42nm for the cruise
355nm for the season
July 6
Day 5 – Daily log
Up at 4:55 AM and there is a stillness blanketing the Bucks Harbor.
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| Bucks Hbr |
Coffee and a simple breakfast of granola, berries and yogurt while watching the comings and goings of fauna and boats.
Kathy did a bit of work that needed attention then went about the harbor on her kayak before we headed to the yacht club dock in Porcine to meet up with the cousins.
Coffee deprivation occurred when we found after the short walk that the store was closed. Okay, no worries Nan, Ellie, Kathy and I dinghy back to have coffee and conversation on Oriane.
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| Nan and Ellie |
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| Nan and Thom at Bucks Hbr Marine |
With the time to depart for Blue Hill Bay approaching, crew and guests took Oriane to Bucks Harbor Marine fuel dock to say goodbye to Nan and Ellie and to top off the fuel and water tanks. The tide was turning favorable and waits for no man.
Althea was ready to go as we cleared the dock. Sails were raised and we pointed the bow Southeast into Eggemoggin Reach. The wind was squirrelly for 15 minutes or so requiring many tacks finally settling in so that we could point down the Reach to proceed under the Deer Island bridge and past the Wooden Boat school. At the southern end of the Reach, Oriane turned east and proceeded downwind through Pond Island Passage into Blue Hill Bay.
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| Althea passing under the bridge |
Progress was going smoothly until Althea got into a fight with a lobster trap buoy. Our sails were dropped and we circled back to offer assistance. 15 or 20 minutes of various attempts to free their boat finally produced the desired result of freedom.
Oriane’s track during the Althea’s lobster incident:
We resumed our journey passing north of Hardwood Island and finally into Bartlett Narrows. We veered north around the end of Bartlett Island and arrived in one of our very favorite destinations - Galley Cove and found the two huge moorings vacant as hoped. After settling in, Tom and Robin rowed over for cocktails and dinner aboard Oriane. G&T’s and a dinner of chicken/grape/green olive kebabs with corn on the cob and brown rice were enjoyed.
Just after Althea’s crew departed, a cloud of mosquitoes descended. A murderous rampage involving what we call our electric fly swamper occupied our time. Innumerable determined critters sacrificed themselves in the assault as the crew wielded the weapon of choice in our successful defense.
It’s been a good day.
25nm for the day
67nm for the cruise
380.3nm for the season
July 7
Day 6 – Daily log
The day was spent swinging to the breeze and tide while hanging on the mooring in Galley Cove. The morning was spent relaxing, reading, planning and general lounging. Kathy and Robin explored the shoreline on their boards. A picnic ashore is in the offing for the afternoon.
3:30 pm the two crews went ashore and carefully created a beach fire below the high tide line. Beer, snacks and conversation ensued.
Back on the boat our crew had dinner and a spirited game of Scrabble followed by reading and bed.
It's been a good day.
Nothing further of consequence to report.
0nm for the day
67nm for the cruise
380.3nm for the season
July 8
Day 7 – Daily log
The wake up alarm went off at 5:00 so that there would be time to get coffee and breakfast before a 6:00 AM departure from Galley Cove bound for Blue Hill. Resupply of food stuff depends on getting to the town dock when the tide allows. It is accessible for 4 hours - 2 hrs either side of the predicted 10AM high water. The harbor dries out to mudflats and becomes impassable if you don’t get the time right. Today that means in order for us to walk to the grocery store and back we need to be at the Blue Hill Town dock by around 8:30 and be back before noon.
During the hour and a half crossing to Blue Hill thick fog didn’t give us much warning of lobster pots. Our nav lights were on and our trusty fog horn alerted early risers of our presence.
Kathy keeps lobster pot watch.
Althea went in and out of sight even though they remained 1/8th mile behind us.
Nav buoys appeared out of the gray surrounding us one after another right where my calculations said they would be. Only one boat showed up on radar finally revealing itself as it passed at considerable speed off our starboard. In due time we arrived at our destination of the Kollegewidgwok Yacht Club where we rafted together on a mooring. The four of us gathered both our gear and our wits and struck off in our dinghy for the mile trip to the dock.
Ashore – coffee first. Then a side trip to the interesting Blue Hill Library where we would see what was once thought to be Magellan’s armor
A serious uphill trek commenced after visiting the library to the BH Food Coop to replenish our food supplies. The thought was to get there by foot then get an Uber back to the dinghy to an avoid carrying the load. The Uber was a no show so we steeled ourselves and headed back on foot for the 1.2 mile return trip. Good exercise.
We made it back in time to successfully dinghy back to our boats before the harbor dried out. On the way back we saw a loon, a bald eagles, a great blue heron, jumping pogies, a seal and a myriad of gulls and cormorants.
As soon as we got the food stowed Kathy went ashore to put in several business hours of work that needed to be done.
At 3:45 I went ashore in the yacht club launch and tried out their outdoor shower. Primitive but effective and refreshing.
Back on the boat I watched bald eagles battling over a fish. Bird songs and calls abound all around the boat.
It’s miller time.
Kathy and Robin arrive back to our rafted boats by catching the last launch around 6. And soon thereafter happy hour occurred.
Tales, lies and stories are enjoyed.
Paper charts are consulted for destination options for tomorrow’s move. Camp Island anchorage in Merchant Row southeast of Stonington is selected as our first option. A lovely spot. Hell’s Half Acre is the primary backup. Tomorrow’s weather will determine the anchorage location.
Dinner onboard – pan fried fresh sushi grade salmon on a bed of lettuce with a blueberry salsa.
Afterwards a little Antiques Roadshow then bed.
It’s been a good day.
8.3nm 1.5 hours travel for the day plus 2nm dinghy ride.
75nm for the cruise
388nm for the season.
July 9
Day 8 – Daily log
The day started in Blue Hill with the destination of Hell’s Half Acre Island in Merchant Row south of Stonington. After breakfast and some aquatic activities, the crew went ashore, one to finish some necessary work, the other to go for a good, hilly 45 minute walk.
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| Friendly locals say "hi' during my walk |
When I got back to Oriane I did some prep work for the day’s sail. Weather – check, nav route planned -check, considerations for separating the rafted boats impacted by the strong incoming tide – check. The destination was set, the route programmed. When Kathy arrived back by launch we began our departure. The mooring was passed from Althea to Oriane. As planned, the boats separated without incident or stress. Althea headed to the dock to top up water. We got all set to go and released the mooring line. It had been a fun stop.
The wind was predicted to be light out of the east so of course it was south-southwest at 13 just the wrong direction for our course. We sailed upwind on a best course tacking before hitting Long Island. Tacking again before “hitting the beach” on the mainland. Back and forth slowly making progress. After all these years, I’m still discovering new ways how to make this little ship go upwind faster. Today, I discovered some new finer points.
We didn’t want all this tacking upwind fun to impact cocktail hour so we decided to motor sail to where the wind would allow us to sail towards our destination rather than away from it. When we turned the corner around the green can that marks Green Ledge at the SE end of Eggemoggin Reach the jib was relaunched and Johann the Phantom was shut down. Oriane avoided all the lobster pots and numerous rocks and ledges. We struck the sails just outside our anchorage at Hell’s Half Acre Island. The anchor was dropped and set. Post sail chores were completed and a cribbage game broke out (the captain won) complete with a cocktail and extraordinary blue cheese on pecan crackers with green grapes on the side.
Dinner-vegetable egg rolls on a base of olive oil and lime coleslaw. A crab cake completed the repast. With fingers of fog beginning to envelop the surrounding islands we retreat below. Kathy threatens Scrabble. I decide to continue rereading Farley Mowat’s hilarious “The Boat Who Wouldn’t Float”.
It’s been a good day.
18.8nm course direct
22.7nm over the ground – 5.5 hrs. underway
97.7nm for the cruise
411 for the summer
July 10
Day 9 – Daily log
Slept in till 6:00. Fog was setting in hard.
Daily options were considered and it was decided to not move to another anchorage today. It was further decided that at 11:45 a 2.1nm dinghy mission to Stonington was an excellent idea. Kathy worked for a time and I fixed our anchor windless remote. I cleaned the corroded deck connection with drill bit, carburetor cleaner, a Q-tip and bronze wool.
At 11:45 the two crews climbed into Althea’s dinghy and headed to the big city. I showed Tom and Robin how to find the town dock. After securing the dink, we drifted about in the village and finally anchored ourselves in the 27 Fathoms Waterfront Grille where we enjoyed a fabulous lunch. Options for tomorrow’s destination wove its way into the conversation. The preferred anchorage, Perry Creek, was unanimously selected.
The Stonington granite museum was interesting and well worth the visit.
By the time the sailors wandered back to the dinghy dock fog had closed in tight. Off we go armed with a fog horn. Out in the Thoroughfare only two lobster boats pass by appearing out of the fog having previously announced themselves with their unmuffled exhausts. Both slowed courteously to reduce their wake. Avoiding lobster pots and rocks we made it back to the anchorage looking for our boats. Suddenly, two hundred feet away, Althea appeared and finally Oriane. Mission accomplished.
We hear stories of the heat inland but we are spending our time in fleece and coats. Last night was a 2 blanket night. I took the cover off the Charley Nobel enabling us to light up the cabin heater to take the chill off.
The Friendship sloop Gladiator, built in 1902 and owned by Andy and Kandice Zuber came in and anchored next to us. Sailing the coast of Maine is such a treat. We get to see some excellent old and classic crafts. Works of art really.. Next week is the Friendship Sloop Homecoming in Rockland. I’ll have the chance to see long time friends and perhaps race on Tannis, owned by the Cronin family, on Friday before heading to the Pacific Seacraft GAM in Seal Bay over the weekend. I’ve raced on the 1937 sloop Tannis nearly every year for the last 30 years. It’s like sailing a museum piece. No winches - block and tackle only. 38’ on deck 60’ overall with a 33’ boom and 1400 sq. ft. of sail. Wicked fun.
Headed to bed to continue reading my book.
It’s been a good day.
Nothing further of note occurs.
0nm. 4.2 nm by dinghy.
July 11
Day 10 – Daily log
Rain overnight
Up at 6:00 AM, check weather.
Avocado toast with egg and red potatoes, coffee.
Predicted thunderstorms evaporated as they approached the coast so we hoisted the anchor at 10 AM. We must have sucked either one of the myriad jellyfish or some kelp up into our wash down pump because the water stream became not so much as a stream but rather a trickle. With the anchor stowed Kathy continued on the fore-deck to get everything shipshape for the crossing of Isle au Haut Bay.
The visibility was OK, not great but quite manageable. I saw rain on the radar which likely was just a reflection off the low hanging clouds and fog.
The Deer Island Thoroughfare takes us past Stonington, Crotch Island granite quarry, Billings Diesel and exits at Mark Island where the lighthouse bleats a fond farewell to our little ship. Out in the bay we found a lobster pot free area where we could come to a stop, jump down into the dinghy and pump the collected rain water out. It was slowing us down by a knot.
Completed, Oriane continued on course to the eastern entrance of the Fox Island Thoroughfare. Soon thereafter we found ourselves on a mooring in Perry Creek.
Kathy launched her kayak joined up with Robin and the disappeared up the harbor.
I washed the dishes, performed other minor boaty tasks then got the main sail cover out. Putting it on involves repositioning the main halyard keeping an eye on potential chafe points.
Kathy got back in time to help finish with the cover. Simple lunch then a good walk ashore with Tom and Robin followed by happy hour. The weather had turned clear and bright.
While we were enjoying our beverages, ninety year-old John McLeod motored in on his tug Cloud Dancer. Several people including us went to say hello to the ”Mayor of Perry Creek”. It was nice to see John back at it.
Dinner was served, dishes were done, the kayak lifted and stowed on deck, the electric dinghy motor was disassembled and passed up to Kathy for stowage.
The cribbage board was brought out and Kathy beat me bad.
Reading in bunks ended the day as a new batch of fog whispered in.
It’s been a good day.
12nm for the day
112nm for the cruise
423nm for the season
July 12
Day 11 – Daily log
5:00 AM and I’m up and at ‘em.
Coffee and a breakfast of cottage cheese, blueberries and homemade granola. Deck prepped, navigation programmed, Johan the Phantom started, running and steaming lights on instruments on and fog horn at the ready we cast off for the push to Rockland.
Tom stopped by and we will see he and Robin on Thursday before they head off to Nova Scotia and Cape Breton.
The fog horn was activated as the visibility lowered as we passed the Sugarloafs near Browns Head Lighthouse. The North Haven Ferry Capt. Neil Burgess passed us off our port beam after radio contact agreement.
The two hour crossing was spent cleaning, organizing and straightening up below decks.
After picking up our mooring we caught the launch to bring us ashore for the ride home.
We saw many wonderful things and visited some of our favorite places. Our fun 4th of July cruise came to the end.
It’s been a good day, it's been a good cruise.
11.8nm for the day
124nm for the cruise
435nm for the season
